I just traveled internationally for the first time since coronavirus lockdowns — Here's what my trip was like
When I initially heard Antigua would be opening up for American tourists in early June, I immediately wanted to go.
I hadn't been out of the country for several months, and I thought this would be a great opportunity to visit a country I'd never been to before, while also getting an idea of what travel will be like in a world with an unrelenting pandemic.
With coronavirus cases still spiking in the United States -- causing the European Union to block American tourists from visiting the continent for now -- and no sign that COVID-19 is going to go away any time soon, I believe we have to figure out a way to live with this disease and travel responsibly and safely while doing so.
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I've received several positive antibody tests in the last few weeks, so I may have had COVID-19 earlier in the year.
Of course, I followed all of the recommendations from health officials both in the U.S. and in Antigua once I arrived, which include wearing face masks in public, sanitizing and washing my hands frequently and practicing social distancing.
Having just returned from the trip with a friend earlier this week, I'm pleased to say it was a success, and if this trip was any indication of the future, I believe we can get to a place where travel can occur safely and responsibly and in a way that keeps the risk of spreading COVID-19 to others at a minimum.
Here's what my trip was like.
Related: How to minimize risk on your summer vacation
Booking my trip to Antigua
Right now, American Airlines is the only airline connecting the U.S. with Antigua and Barbuda. JetBlue will resume its New York-JFK to Antigua (ANU) service later this month, but for now, AA's daily service from Miami (MIA) is the only option, and what I flew for my weekend getaway.
I booked my flight as two one-ways, paying 28,000 AAdvantage miles and $43 in taxes and fees for the outbound flight in first class, and 18,000 miles and $54 in taxes and fees for the return in economy. Thanks to my Executive Platinum status with American, I was upgraded to first class on the way home, boosting the value of the miles even more.

When I began my hotel search, there were a few important considerations. I learned that the best scuba diving is on the south side of the island, which ruled out Hodges Bay Resort and Spa on the north side. Jumby Bay, likely the top resort on the island, remains closed until the fall, so that was also out. There's a Sandals resort, but it's too focused on couples and not exactly what I was looking for. And, unfortunately, there aren't any traditional points properties on the island.
That's when I settled on Hammock Cove Resort and Spa, on the east end of the island near a breathtaking area called Devil's Bridge where the Caribbean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean.

Rates at Hammock Cove often go upwards of $1,200 per night, but for last weekend they were $685 per night. It's an all-inclusive property so all food and nonmotorized watersports were included in the rate. Since this isn't a traditional points property, I decided to book my stay through the Chase Travel Portal, where I redeemed a total of 136,906 points at a value of 1.5 cents per point.
Related: The best credit cards for hotel stays
After I made my reservation, I inquired with the hotel about an airport transfer, but they were unable to provide it due to the pandemic and told me I'd have to arrange one through a private company. I booked a round-trip transfer for two for $129 through Eagle Discovery Tours, and I'd recommend the company to anyone traveling to Antigua.
A driver was waiting for us at the airport and brought us in a private shuttle to the resort. There was a plastic barrier between the front and rear seats to minimize the risk of spreading germs and he wore a mask during our transfers.

My weekend at Hammock Cove
Arrival and check-in
My flight from Miami landed in Antigua around 11 p.m., which meant we didn't arrive at Hammock Cove until around midnight.

Since it was so late when we arrived, there was just a skeleton crew working the check-in desks, but the process was smooth. Before we entered the building, our temperatures were taken and the hotel staff explained to us how the hotel was taking its pandemic procedures very seriously, and they would be strictly enforced.
Related: What your hotel stay will look like after coronavirus
Masks had to be worn in common areas of the property and when walking between different areas. But once you arrived at the beach or pool or restaurants, they could be removed.

The staff sprayed our luggage with a disinfectant, so I recommend traveling with hard-sided luggage for the time being.
After we checked in, we were escorted to our room by a staff member. Inside, there were a couple of salmon sandwiches for us to eat. I really appreciated the gesture, but the sandwiches themselves gave me Fyre Festival vibes. Just some potato chips and soft drinks would have done the trick.
The resort
I wanted to stay at a resort that actually felt like a resort, with pools, a nice beach and a few restaurants in case I was required to stay on the property during my vacation.
Luckily, I didn't need to quarantine. The authorities in Antigua accepted the COVID test results we'd received the day before in Miami, and we were allowed to venture off property. The morning after we arrived, we even got to scuba dive!

Hammock Cove is just 30 minutes to V.C. Bird International Airport (ANU) and also about a half-hour away from English Harbour, where we went for our dive. It wasn't the best diving in the world, but it felt great to be doing it again.
The resort is very compact. You can walk the entirety of the property no problem.
Related: Country-by-country guide to Caribbean reopening
I particularly loved the tiered pool, which was especially great for traveling during a pandemic because guests weren't fighting for chairs around the same large pool. And the loungers were mostly in separate nooks, perfect for social distancing.

The beach was great, too, and there were plenty of toys available to use, such as stand-up paddleboards (some even with pedals!) and large circular rafts for relaxing in the sun. We also got a ride on the resort's catamaran one afternoon from Julio, who managed the beach.

Villa
There are just 42 villas at Hammock Cove, and each is about 1,000 square feet, which is a great size.
The room was equipped with an air conditioning unit directly above the bed. This made it difficult to cool the room without the freezing cold air blowing directly on the bed, but just having that cold air was appreciated since it's so hot — day and night -- in Antigua in the summer.

The minibar was stocked with medium-size bottles of liquor, local beers and water bottles which were greatly appreciated after a day in the sun.
The room was nicely designed and even had a private plunge pool. It wasn't an over-the-top Maldives villa by any means, but it was comfortable and certainly a nice place to spend a few nights.

Food and beverage
The food at Hammock Cove was a mixed bag.
In general, it seemed like everything was imported and "Americanized." For example, there were few fish dishes. At the resort's high-end restaurant, you could basically choose beef or pork — not exactly what I expected from a resort in the Caribbean. I did have a grouper dish once, but it was overcooked.


That being said, there were some dishes that I loved, like the shrimp Caesar salad and the truffle eggs and steak at breakfast.


The drinks were also excellent. Nothing says "Caribbean vacation" like a frozen Miami Vice by the pool!

Overall, I wasn't blown away by the food, but it was in line with what I would expect at an all-inclusive property, and it really was wonderful eating at a poolside restaurant — and not having to do the cooking.
Service
The staff was consistently great at Hammock Cove. Like I mentioned above, Julio at the beach was fantastic and gave us a fun afternoon on the hotel's catamaran.
I got a massage at the spa one afternoon, which was also excellent. Marilyn, my massage therapist, was awesome.
And a visit to the spa felt overwhelmingly "normal." The only difference I noticed was that I had to sanitize my hands before entering, and Marilyn wore a face mask for the duration of the treatment.
Since most hotels are cutting back on housekeeping for now, I had to request (and pay an extra $20) for our room to be serviced, but I was happy to do so.
Bottom line
I really enjoyed my weekend at Hammock Cove in Antigua. Even though, on top of everything else, the Caribbean skies were clouded by a Saharan dust storm, my friend and I had a great time. The weather was still very good and we enjoyed every minute of our time at the pool and beach.

My flights and navigating the airport in Antigua was a breeze, and it's clear the country is taking its pandemic-prevention protocols very seriously.
I think I got a good value for my Chase points at Hammock Cove. I wouldn't have been happy to spend $1,200 or more per night there, but at under $700 per night for an all-inclusive resort, I was pleased.

We are going to have to embrace this "new normal" of travel, and if my weekend trip to Antigua is any indication, I think that if people make a concerted effort to follow the regulations of local health authorities, we will be able to do so responsibly and safely.
All photos by the author.
TPG featured card
Rewards
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro offer
Annual Fee
Recommended Credit
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro Offer
You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
$325Recommended Credit
Credit ranges are a variation of FICO® Score 8, one of many types of credit scores lenders may use when considering your credit card application.Excellent to Good
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.

