Fourth time is the charm: What it's like traveling to Tahiti right now
Oh, the saga of my multiple foiled attempts to get to French Polynesia. Fortunately, this time there's a happy ending to tell you about.
I was first booked for Tahiti in March 2020, right as the COVID-19 pandemic shut down international borders. I was able to cancel the trip and get refunds and credits, and I figured I'd just rebook a few months later. Ha. As you can imagine, the second trip I planned for September 2020 was also canceled. Once borders began reopening in the winter of 2021, I tried again and was all set to go again in August. Unfortunately, the third time wasn't the charm as the delta variant of coronavirus raged and French Polynesia shut down inter-island travel again.
This time, though, the stars aligned and my trip on Oct. 23 actually happened. In fact, just a few days ago I arrived at Fa’a’ā International Airport (PPT) in Tahiti. Despite the stress and the hoops you have to jump through, I think it's worth the investment of time and energy to come to this bucket list destination.
Here's what you need to know to visit Tahiti.
What's required
To travel to Tahiti, you'll need to be vaccinated. You'll also need a negative COVID-19 test, an ETIS visa approved ahead of time, a statement declaring you are coronavirus-free and your passport. You can technically come if you are not vaccinated, but you would need to apply for a "compelling reason" waiver and quarantine on arrival. Fortunately, I am fully vaccinated.
Related: When will international travel return? A country-by-country guide to coronavirus recovery
The COVID-19 test can be either a PCR test taken within 72 hours of departure for Tahiti or an antigen test less than 24-hours old. I opted to get to Los Angeles a day early as I knew there was a testing site at the airport that I had used before for a PCR test to go to Hawaii. Clarity Labs makes the testing process fairly easy. The company has three locations at LAX.
Related: Traveling soon? Here's how to get a COVID-19 test
As this was my first international trip since the coronavirus pandemic, I was anxious and I made sure that I filled out the application for entry very early. I initially applied back in August. That trip got postponed, but I was able to use the same ETIS and just change the dates and the itinerary. Once I submitted the information, I had my visa with its special QR code within a day via email.
The ETIS from the government is fairly self-explanatory. Be sure to check the box for English at the top unless you are fluent in French. You'll then check various boxes on various screens before you are prompted to fill out your itinerary.
You can follow along with the steps in the attached gallery. Note that you'll need all your details, including arrival and departure information, hotel phone numbers and addresses and any inter-island travel you'll be doing. Finally, you pay a 5,000 XPF fee for health monitoring costs (about $49).
I also had everything printed out at the Hyatt Regency LAX where I was staying. I'm really glad I ended up getting an early flight a full two days before my Air Tahiti Nui flight. The Thursday night flight I was originally scheduled on to LAX from Bozeman, Montana, was canceled as part of a SkyWest IT meltdown on Thursday.
Make sure you have that QR code handy for each step of the trip.
Related: Where can Americans travel internationally?
Anyway, I scheduled my PCR test at the Clarity lab outside Terminal 6 at LAX for Friday morning. It cost $125 and I had the results just about three hours later.
Checking in
I tried to stop by the Air Tahiti Nui ticket counter on Friday night around 9 p.m. to check my papers, but the lines were very long and the agent at the premium counter told me he couldn't spare the time with the check-in line as long as it was.
So the next day I got to the Air Tahiti Nui tickets counters at Los Angeles International's Tom Bradley Terminal almost four hours before my flight as I was nervous about all the paperwork.
John checked me in. He didn't ask for my sworn statement about my health. He only wanted to see my negative COVID-19 test results and my ETIS visa information and most importantly the QR code for the ETIS. He did ask about my return flight information, likely because it was on a separate reservation.
Related: Booking Tahiti on points and miles
At the boarding area, they didn't ask for any of my papers. I even went to the gate agent to check, but they just wanted to verify passports and boarding passes.
After boarding, I was surprised there were no announcements about travel requirements or entry restrictions. Flight attendants did hand out visitor and immigration cards not long after we crossed 10,000 feet about 20 minutes into the flight, but those forms were to identify the nature of your business in French Polynesia and your immigration status. The forms didn't even mention COVID-19.
Shortly before landing, flight attendants made the normal landing announcements, but nothing about the entry protocols.
Arriving at Fa’a’ā International Airport (PPT)
Upon arrival at Fa’a’ā International Airport (PPT), you deplane via a set of stairs. It was gently raining when I arrived, but I still wanted to kiss the tarmac. The temperature was a perfect 72 degrees.
As soon as you enter the arrivals hall, you are greeted by an airport employee who directs you to one of two lines. To add to the ambiance, there is a three-person Polynesia band playing in the arrivals hall.
The first form you need to have ready is your visitor card. After a brief lineup, the next station wants to see your ETIS QR code.
The guy who checked my form was very friendly, asked for my name and then handed me a self-test kit with my name written on it.
He sent me along to another, longer line that snaked through the terminal to immigration. The immigration agent wanted my form for immigration status and asked me where I was staying. He checked my passport too and stamped it. He also wanted to see the printout of my negative COVID-19 test results again. When I struggled to find my test paper, he waved me through.
The final step on the arrival journey was a testing area near the baggage claim. There were several semi-private tables with a technician who walked me through the nasal self-swab after asking me to blow my nose and then a mouth swab after I coughed three times into my elbow. He sealed up the two swabs and sent me on my way. I assume, like Hawaii, they don't reach out unless you were to test positive, as I haven't heard from anyone so far.
All in all, it took about 35–40 minutes, and I was on my way to paradise.
Related: The best ways to get to Tahiti using points and miles
Bottom line
While I wouldn't call getting to French Polynesia easy, I do think it wasn't as cumbersome as I feared. In fact, it's not that much different from my trips to Hawaii when it still required registration, prearrival testing and testing on arrival.
Related: Everything you need to know about visiting a reopening Hawaii
On this trip, I'll get to visit Bora Bora, Moorea, Rangiroa and Tahiti. In fact, I'm finishing this article from a beautiful lagoon room at the Sofitel on Moorea.
I'll be able to spend nearly two weeks in paradise. I'd call the little bit of extra work it takes well worth the effort.
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| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
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Intro offer
Annual Fee
Recommended Credit
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
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- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro Offer
You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
$325Recommended Credit
Credit ranges are a variation of FICO® Score 8, one of many types of credit scores lenders may use when considering your credit card application.Excellent to Good
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.