Mardi Gras is back: Tradition, parades and pickles
There are so many reasons to fall in love with New Orleans: the music, food, architecture, neighborhoods, people and atmosphere. Mardi Gras captures the vibrance and heart of the Big Easy.
After the coronavirus began rapidly spreading in and around the city shortly after Mardi Gras 2020 festivities, city officials opted to cancel Mardi Gras 2021 activities to discourage visitors from coming to New Orleans in the midst of a lockdown.
But with COVID-19 case numbers down and the world beginning to reopen again, the city brought back Mardi Gras 2022 — parades, floats, beads and large crowds included — and it was bigger than ever. To say this year's celebration was memorable would be a massive understatement.
From parades with larger-than-life floats to concerts with quirky costumes, here's a look at everything I enjoyed during Mardi Gras 2022.
Related: A beginner's guide to celebrating Mardi Gras in New Orleans
Lundi Gras' Proteus and Orpheus Parades, a prequel to the main event
While festivities start in January nearly two months before Mardi Gras, I zeroed in on the week of the main celebrations for this year's event.
To kick off Mardi Gras 2022, I staked out a spot at the southern end of the French Quarter by the Residence Inn New Orleans French Quarter Area/Central Business District (where I was staying) on Lundi Gras (the day before Mardi Gras Day) to watch the Proteus parade.
An evening parade organized by the Krewe of Proteus (one of more than two dozen groups that organizes a parade every year for Mardi Gras), this Lundi Gras event was a feast for the eyes. The krewe, which is named after the Greek mythological figure with ties to the sea, is known for its impressive aquatic-themed floats.
There were also various marching bands from schools throughout New Orleans to watch in between floats. Listening to these talented young musicians was a highlight for me; the music they made was far better than any beads I received.
Once the Proteus parade wrapped up, I stuck around for the Orpheus parade.
Orchestrated by the Krewe of Orpheus, a name that draws inspiration from the musically inclined figure in Greek mythology, this parade focused on, you guessed it, music. Singer and actor Harry Connick Jr. (one of the krewe's founders) made a royal appearance on the float.
Another highlight was the Smoking Mary, a long locomotive float composed of six separate parts.
The 610 Stompers, the first all-male dance troop in New Orleans, really pumped up the crowd with their synchronized dance moves, too. The choreography paired with songs by icons like Dolly Parton was just as awesome as it sounds.
Quintron and Miss Pussycat: A concert just as confusing as it was captivating
Following the end of Lundi Gras' two parades, my friend and I headed to One Eyed Jacks (a new location for the venue on Decatur Street) to catch a concert headlined by Quintron and Miss Pussycat, two local artists who regularly perform together around the city. This was far from your typical concert, though.
Concertgoers donned their Mardi Gras best (think: leopard print, sequins and elaborate headpieces) and danced for hours as Quintron performed under the stage name Bobby Mardi Gras alongside Miss Pussycat and others dressed as pickles.
The upbeat sound and keyboard-driven tunes were contagious, and I quickly found myself wrapped up in the moment forgetting about the oddity of what I was observing. It's no wonder this annual Lundi Gras tradition is a local favorite.
The culturally rich Zulu parade, a Fat Tuesday tradition
With a couple of hours of sleep under my belt the next morning, I headed to the corner of Jackson and South Claiborne avenues in the Central City neighborhood to watch the Zulu parade, the first of several that occur on Mardi Gras Day (aka Fat Tuesday).
Put together by one of the city's oldest groups, the Krewe of Zulu, the Zulu parade paid homage to the Zulu people of South Africa. Participants wearing face paint and elaborate feather attire interacted with the crowd while making their way along the parade route.
Instead of the typical Mardi Gras beads thrown during other parades, the Zulu parade featured a mix of hand-painted medallions and coconuts with different Zulu-themed designs. One of the best catches I made was of a meticulously decorated medallion featuring a Zulu warrior.
A Mardi Gras to remember
Once the Zulu parade finished, I found myself craving a New Orleans staple: beignets. So, I made my way to the beignet capital of New Orleans, Cafe du Monde, to get my fix.
As expected, the beignets (which I washed down with an iced chicory coffee) were the perfect sweet treat to help me refuel after a busy 24 hours.
While munching on the fluffy, powdered sugar-dusted concoctions, I couldn't help but reflect on my time in the Big Easy, unaware until that moment of just how much I needed this trip. It was the first time in years that I felt like I was enjoying a normal vacation very much like pre-pandemic travels. I'm sure that feeling would be even stronger now that the city has lifted its mask mandate for indoor and public spaces.
Related: Travel is back in a big way as COVID-19 appears to be entering endemic stage; Why I'm still nervous
It's no secret that New Orleans embraces its "Laissez les bons temps rouler" (or "Let the good times roll") mantra, especially during Mardi Gras. No matter what your reason is for visiting, odds are you'll have an incredible time.
Although I'm not even two weeks into my absence from the city, I'm already eager to plan my next trip back.
TPG featured card
at American Express's secure site
Terms & restrictions apply. See rates & fees.
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 5X | New! Earn 5X Membership Rewards® points on prepaid hotel stays booked through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points on flights booked through AmexTravel.com, the Amex Travel App, or purchased directly from airlines. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points on prepaid car rentals booked through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App and cruises booked and paid through AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Pros
- Valuable dining and food-related credits
- Flexible rewards with airline and hotel transfer partners
- Multiple travel and purchase protections
- No foreign transaction fees
- Access to Amex Offers for additional savings (enrollment required)
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $8,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- New! Earn 5X Membership Rewards® points on prepaid hotel stays booked through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points on flights booked through AmexTravel.com, the Amex Travel App, or purchased directly from airlines.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points on prepaid car rentals booked through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App and cruises booked and paid through AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- Pay It® lets you tap in the American Express® App to quickly pay for small purchase amounts throughout the month and still earn rewards the way you usually do. Plan It® gives you the option to split up big purchases into equal monthly payments with a fixed fee. You’ll know upfront exactly how much you’ll pay.
- Updated! $120 Dining Credit: Earn up to a total of $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the Gold Card at Grubhub (including Seamless), Buffalo Wild Wings, Five Guys, The Cheesecake Factory, and Wonder. This can be an annual savings of up to $120. Enrollment required.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year at over 10,000 qualifying U.S. Resy restaurants after you pay for eligible purchases with the American Express® Gold Card. That’s up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: Earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin’ locations. Enrollment required.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Enjoy up to $120 in Uber Cash annually with your Gold Card. Just add your Card to your Uber account and you'll get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an Amex Card for your transaction.
- New! As an American Express® Gold Card Member, you can enjoy complimentary Hertz Five Star® Status. Enjoy benefits like skipping the counter at select locations, adding an additional driver at no additional cost*, and vehicle upgrades**. Benefit enrollment and Hertz Gold+ registration are required. *Additional drivers must meet standard rental qualifications and must be a spouse or domestic partner to qualify as complimentary. Other additional drivers subject to fees. **Benefits are subject to availability and vary by location. Additional Hertz program Terms and Conditions including age restrictions apply.
- Take advantage of a $100 credit towards eligible charges* at over 1,300 upscale hotels worldwide when you book The Hotel Collection through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App **. *Eligible charges vary by property. **The Hotel Collection requires a two-night minimum stay.
- Book your travel through the Amex Travel App with added peace of mind – backed by American Express® service and support. Only for American Express® Card Members.
- Whenever you need us, we're here. Our Member Services team will ensure you are taken care of. From lost Card replacement to statement questions, we are available to help 24/7.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.