Testing in Portugal: My experience getting a COVID-19 test to return to the US
Eager travelers will go to great lengths to see the world again. Count me as one of them.
Between packing eight rapid at-home COVID-19 test kits to navigating an array of ever-changing restrictions, my trip to Portugal has truly been, well, a test of the traveler's spirit.
But despite the inconveniences of going abroad during the COVID-era, I loved my time in Portugal -- and savored it even more than I expected to. After nine days in the country, my trip is now coming to an end.
However, that meant I needed a COVID-19 test for travel back to the U.S.
View this post on Instagram
In the days since arriving in Portugal, I received numerous messages about what it has been like. (In fact, I answered 10 of the most frequently asked questions about my visit.)
Here's everything you need to know about testing in Portugal -- and what my experience was like to get one before entering the U.S.
How to get a COVID-19 test in Portugal
There are several ways to get a COVID-19 test while in Portugal. The process isn't that different from the U.S., but most of the information about testing in the country isn't available in English.
Related: Reopening Europe: When can you visit again? A country-by-country guide.
Pharmacies
First, there are hundreds of official pharmacies that can provide one of the following tests that are valid for travel to the U.S:
- A PCR test with lab report
- A rapid antigen test with lab report
Any pharmacy in Portugal can also sell you an at-home rapid test kit. While the results of an at-home test kit purchased in Portugal aren't valid for entry to the U.S., they are valid for checking in to accommodations or indoor dining on weekends (as of July 23, 2021).
Related: Why I packed 8 COVID-19 tests to fly to Portugal — and what it’s like to enter now
Most pharmacy locations offer a PCR or rapid test with a lab report (for entry to the U.S.) for about 25-50 euro ($30-$60), but you may need to book an appointment in advance. Walk-ins are possible if there is availability.
Here’s a list of pharmacies and COVID-19 testing centers in Portugal (in Portuguese). You can also call the mainland Portugal hotline: (+ 351) 808 24 24 24 (Press 9 for English).
Important note: Most rapid self-test kits with a negative result are not valid for re-entering the U.S. Here are the only CDC-approved at-home rapid kits that the U.S. accepts for reentry. These must be purchased prior to leaving the U.S.
Hotels
Officially, Portugal requires a COVID-19 test or EU Digital Health Certificate to check in to any accommodation.
Information current as of July 22:
- Within 72 hours of check-in time: Negative PCR test
- Within 48 hours of check-in time: Rapid antigen test with lab report
- Within 24 hours of check-in time: Rapid antigen test (must be in the presence of a health or pharmaceutical professional who certifies result)
- No time requirement:
- Rapid antigen self-test carried out at the door of the establishment (must be under the supervision of a person in charge of premises)
- EU Digital COVID Certificate
Depending on where you're staying, some hotels will provide (or sell) a rapid at-home COVID-19 test. Again, this type of test is not valid for entry to the U.S.
Related: What to do if you test positive for COVID-19 overseas
Airports
In addition, all the major Portuguese airports -- including Lisbon (LIS) and Porto (OPO) -- offer rapid antigen COVID-19 testing that you can take prior to your flight to the U.S.
However, you should arrive at the airport early (about four hours is a safe bet) since tests are done on a first-come, first-served basis. The cost for the rapid test at the airport is 30 euro ($35) and is valid for entry to the U.S.
My pharmacy experience
First, the bad news: All of the pharmacies in Portugal operate independently so there isn't one central database or website where you can book appointments or know the actual testing cost beforehand.
Portuguese residents also have access to free testing and have priority at walk-in testing locations.
My last night in Portugal was at the lovely Intercontinental Porto, a 5-star property in the heart of town.
There were a number of nearby pharmacies that offered COVID-19 testing. However, I had to check with each pharmacy individually to determine appointment or walk-in availability. The concierge was able to assist with this.
Instead of dealing with the stress of a walk-in, I scheduled an appointment at Farmacia Moreno for the morning of my flight to the U.S.
The pharmacy is only about a five-minute walk from the Intercontinental Porto and main Porto train station (São Bento). Once I arrived, I checked in and scanned a QR code to fill out an online form with basic health and contact information.
I was immediately whisked to an upstairs room where a nurse conducted the most thorough (and unpleasant) nasal swab out of the 20+ tests I've taken to date. Thankfully, it was only in one nostril.
Note that the nurse who did my test said that she's heard Portugal typically tends to put the nasal swab deeper in the nostril than tests done elsewhere.
On the plus side, 15 minutes later, I got my negative test result with both a physical paper copy and emailed copy.
My airport experience
Porto Airport is a pleasant, one-terminal facility that's easily accessible from the city center, less than seven miles away.
COVID-19 rapid testing is available at the center of the check-in pillars and is very easy to find upon entering the airport.
Since I already had my test in hand, I went straight to check in. At both check-in as well as at the gate, I had to show my negative COVID-19 test result.
With Portuguese souvenirs and snacks packed away in my luggage it was time to board my flight to Newark (EWR).
Bottom line
Getting a COVID-19 test in Portugal -- either for travel to the U.S. or to comply with local restrictions -- will require a bit of advanced planning.
Scope out where the closest pharmacies are from your accommodation and determine whether or not you'll need an appointment.
Airports in Lisbon, Porto and Faro also have on-site, rapid antigen testing available -- but arrive early. Finally, one of the most convenient options may be bringing your own test from the U.S. with you. (Remember, this is the only one that is accepted.)
TPG featured card
Rewards
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro offer
Annual Fee
Recommended Credit
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro Offer
You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
$325Recommended Credit
Credit ranges are a variation of FICO® Score 8, one of many types of credit scores lenders may use when considering your credit card application.Excellent to Good
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.