Business as usual: What it's like riding French high-speed rail right now
I was lucky enough to be one of the first Americans to travel to France when the country reopened for international tourism earlier this month. As a refresher, Americans can now travel to France so long as they're vaccinated against COVID-19 or bring a negative COVID-19 test taken within 72 hours of departure.
While I flew into Paris first, my final destination was Nice. I'd always wanted to visit the city in southern France and figured now was my chance. It'd be a great time to visit the city with fewer tourists.
I took the TGV train from Paris to Nice a few days ago and reported on my experience. Here, I'll run you through everything you need to know about riding French rail during the coronavirus pandemic.
Riding French rail from Paris to Nice during the pandemic
TGV service was mostly business as usual, but you should know what to expect before you hop on board. This is especially true if you're weighing whether you should take the train, drive or fly to your destination in France.
But before I discuss, it's important to understand a couple of key French rail terms that I'll use throughout the article.
The first is SNCF, short for "Société nationale des chemins de fer français" . SNCF is the equivalent of Amtrak in France. It's a state-owned rail company that operates domestic and international trains within and around France, including the route from Paris to Nice.
SNCF runs TGV service. This is short for "Train à Grande Vitesse," or "high-speed train" in English, and is SNCF's high-speed service. It runs between most major French cities and on international routes.
Related: European startup aims to make overnight train travel a luxury experience
Buying a train ticket online
I purchased my train ticket online on the SNCF website a few days before I departed for France. Normally I would've booked earlier, but I decided to book last-minute because of the uncertainty around France's border reopening plans.
My ticket from Paris to Nice cost 101 euros, which is just over $122 at the time of writing this article. Train ticket prices — like airfare — are subject to change on long-haul routes with changes in demand, etc.
Booking the ticket online was pretty straightforward. All you have to do is input your desired itinerary and select the time that works best for you. On the Paris to Nice route, you can choose between Inoui and Ouigo TGV service.
Inoui is the full-service product while Ouigo is akin to a budget carrier. Ouigo only operates second-class, has stricter luggage restrictions and doesn't have a dining car, but generally has lower fares. I booked an Inoui ticket since it was my first time riding an SNCF train and I wanted to report on the full experience.
It's also worth noting that Inoui doesn't have baggage fees — according to the rail operator's website, as long as you can carry it, you can bring it without an extra fee.
I was sent a mobile ticket shortly after booking and printed a physical ticket at the train station at a self-service kiosk. Make sure to flag the confirmation email in your inbox as you'll need to scan your ticket to get on the train.
Related: 14 of the most scenic train rides on Earth
Boarding the train in Paris
My train departed from Gare de Lyon station at 11:26 a.m. local time, and I arrived roughly 20 minutes before departure. The train station was remarkably busy and there were trains going all over France.
Gare De Lyon station has a couple of shops, bakeries and restaurants, so you can grab a snack or magazine before your trip. There are automated kiosks around the train station that you can use to print your pre-booked tickets, buy tickets and make changes.
I looked at the departure board to find which track my train departed from. You can board your train until two minutes before departure, but I recommend boarding early to avoid any mishaps.
Boarding was completely contactless — I just scanned my ticket at an unmanned gate and was on my way. It was an incredibly seamless experience when compared to airport security.
Related: Bullet trains in America? The new push for major high-speed rail project between Boston and New York
Onboard experience on the TGV
I boarded the train and quickly found my seat. In second-class, legroom is plentiful and the tray table is enough for my 15" MacBook Pro, but the seats could have been a bit wider. There's a single outlet per pair of seats, so try and grab the window if you need to charge your laptop.
After we were on our way, a conductor came around to scan our tickets. After this, I went to the dining car to grab an espresso and a soda for the ride. You can purchase food and drink from the car, but you must bring it back to your seat.
The train was surprisingly crowded for our journey to Nice, but not completely full. Many passengers switched seats so couples and families could sit together. All passengers wore masks for the entirety of the trip. That said, you should know that there are no blocked seats or capacity restrictions on SNCF trains.
The rest of my ride was uneventful — but I'm not complaining. The nearly six-hour train ride had only a handful of stops in the South of France. The ride was smooth and the free internet was stable enough to work through the trip without issue.
The biggest perk? Beautiful views of the French countryside.
Related: Why trains are great for travelers who want to reduce their carbon footprint
Arriving in Nice
Soon enough, my train was pulling into Nice's Gare de Nice-Ville train station. This station is much smaller than Gare de Lyon, so it was easy to quickly hop off the train and catch my awaiting Uber.
It's also worth noting that there are COVID-19 testing booths outside of the station. This can be a convenient place to get a test before you return to the U.S., depending on where you're staying in Nice.
Related: France is open to Americans; Here’s what it’s like now and when to go
Bottom line
The train ride was just under 5 hours and 45 minutes. A flight would've been closer to an hour, but considering the time it takes to get to Paris (CDG) from Paris' city center, I think the train is worth it. You'll enjoy great views and a peaceful ride for roughly the same cost as a flight. Plus, the dining car means you won't be left hungry or thirsty on the ride.
That said, a full train would be a tight fit. You may want to consider booking a first-class ticket if you're nervous about crowds during the pandemic. These are only marginally more expensive on the full-service Inoui TGV trains, and seems worth it for a long ride.
Feature photo by Andrew Kunesh/The Points Guy
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There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
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- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
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- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro Offer
You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
$325Recommended Credit
Credit ranges are a variation of FICO® Score 8, one of many types of credit scores lenders may use when considering your credit card application.Excellent to Good
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.