A Glimpse Inside Beijing's Forbidden City
Last month, the Grand Hyatt’s marketing team arranged a private media tour of one of Beijing’s most famous landmarks, the Forbidden City. The excursion was part of the hotel’s blowout Go Grand event, intended to showcase the cultural heritage of Beijing, followed by a multicourse dinner highlighting Chinese regional cuisine.
The rare opportunity to walk through palace rooms closed to the public yanked hard on the spotlight. For perspective, the former imperial palace saw close to 16 million visitors in 2016, with an average of 40,000 tickets sold each day. For most tourists, shooting a crowd-free photo or stealing a quiet moment to revel in the gravitas of the museum’s historical legacy proves an impossible feat.
That’s one reason it was such an honor for me, as the sole American travel writer, along with a select group of Chinese media, to be able to do just that.
The Forbidden City served as the palace that housed Chinese emperors and their families for almost 500 years, beginning with the Ming Dynasty (think blue-and-white vases) to the end of the Qing Dynasty in 1912. The vast complex became a museum in the 1920s. According to tradition, there are 9,999½ rooms in the city. Many have been restored over the years, with about two-thirds currently accessible to the public. Viewing the rest requires a special invitation, much like the one issued to Donald Trump by Chinese President Xi Jinping last fall.
The Grand Hyatt Beijing and the Palace Museum jointly hosted, allowing guests to view the same sections toured by the US president months prior. We arrived late in the afternoon. Bathed in the cool light of a winter sun, we filed through 30-foot-high crimson gates into a quiet courtyard devoid of tourists.
Our group split into two. I followed the English-speaking guide into the Studio of Cleansing Fragrance (Shufang Zhai).
The Studio of Cleansing Fragrance consisted of front and rear courtyards with stages. The larger stage was the first of its kind in the palace, providing a platform for theatrical performances at banquets for visiting princes and ministers. On the smaller stage, the emperor held tea banquets between the second and etnth days of the first lunar month, considered an auspicious period. The sanqing tea served, brewed with plum blossoms, citron, pine nuts and snow water, symbolized nobility and purity.
Passing through sliding doors, we entered a room dominated by a built-in curio case. The fine-grained wooden cabinet consumed the entirety of one wall and concealed a secret chamber for long-deceased emperors. (To do what, I didn’t ask.) Shelves carved with geometric designs held over 100 unique vases representing different eras of noble occupancy.
Next, we entered the Palace of Many Splendors (Chonghua Gong), the former residence of the Qianlong Emperor when he was an imperial prince. Our young chaperone told us how the emperor returned regularly to visit the rooms — and bed — of his teenage years. Apparently, it was a source of fond memories where he had “learned many things about life.”
She pointed to a framed panel on a wall. It looked like intricate cloisonné depicting animals and people, and glowed with unusual iridescence created using a style of art called tian-tsui, now banned. Artisans made the blue sections by gluing the plucked feathers of kingfisher birds onto silver, creating detail so fine it still looks like enamel. Unfortunately for the kingfishers, live birds had the brightest feathers.
"Yes, it was cruel," our guide said. "Kingfishers almost went extinct.”
After the Qianlong emperor’s enthronement, the Palace of Many Splendors underwent extensive renovations, including the addition of a stage to the original design. During spring festivals, the emperor hosted court officials for operas and tea. The last theatrical performance in the imperial palace was held there in 1923.
Inside a series of adjacent rooms, our docent continued detailing the day-to-day life of an emperor.
“Each day, the emperor had to decide where to go inside the palace," she said. "One day he might come here to drink tea and visit one of his wives. Another day he might enjoy a performance and visit with another wife.”
But he didn't drink alcohol, and leaving the palace wasn't necessarily an option: An imperial life wasn’t a free life.
Our tour ended with a climb to the top of the Yanchun Pavilion. A stunning view of sloping yellow roofs lit up by the setting sun inspired a flurry of selfies. As the firmament faded to black, we gathered for tea and cakes in the shape of teapots inside Jianfu Palace Garden, or West Garden, one of the Qianlong emperor's favorite places. A prolific poet and art collector, he wrote prolifically about its allure. Since its reconstruction, the section has served as a dinner venue for state guests, including Trump.
Our evening didn’t end at the palace. Back at the Grand Hyatt, executive chef Anish Padgaonkar had prepared dinner in eight acts.
Seated at two long tables, 40 of us enjoyed a multisensory dining experience where each act interpreted one of the five fixed elements of the Chinese zodiac: metal, water, fire, earth and wood. A favorite of mine married NV Billecart-Salmon champagne decanted from a spectacular Methuselah to China’s finest caviar, Kaluga Queen. The finale saw individual baked Alaskas fired up tableside and served with a luscious 1999 Chateau Coutet Sauternes-Barsac.
It was a meal fit for an emperor. Only we got to enjoy ours with wine.
Feature photo of south gate of Forbidden city from Jingshan Park. (Photo by AdrienC/Getty Images)
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There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
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- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
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- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
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You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
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Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.