I love Hawaii, but I'm not going back anytime soon — here's why
I adore Hawaii. I've been four times in the past couple of years, including during the period when Kauai had a resort bubble program. I was back most recently in July, but several new developments are making me rethink going back anytime soon.
Here's why.
COVID-19 is surging again
Hawaii fully reopened to vaccinated travelers back on July 8. That opened the floodgates to visitors, with pre-pandemic-sized crowds returning. Unfortunately, Hawaii, like the rest of America, is experiencing another wave of coronavirus infections with the delta variant behind much of the surge.
The state went from reporting 60 daily cases a few weeks ago to as many as 500 a day in the past week. The test positivity rate has also surged. In fact, according to Reuters quoting the state's department of health, cases rose by 168% between July 26 and Aug. 8.
Hawaii Gov. David Ige, in a news conference last week, said, "We need to take action, and we need to take action now.”
An emergency room physician in Hawaii named Dr. Darragh O’Carroll told local TV station KHON, “Our cases are increasing, hospitals are filling up and this has no end in sight."
Hawaii is reimposing restrictions
Some health workers and Hawaiian residents are asking for more restrictions in light of the COVID-19 surge.
Indeed, the governor already started rolling back some of the reopening moves last week, reimposing a mask mandate and reducing restaurant and bar capacity back down to 50%. Also coming back? Restrictions on crowds. There can only be 10 or fewer people for indoor events and 25 for outdoor events.
Related: What it's like traveling to Hawaii fully vaccinated
More changes could be coming. Some are suggesting that Hawaii should bring back pre-testing requirements for all incoming travelers and also add post-arrival testing. So far, the governor is resisting bringing back those kinds of measures, saying he wouldn't be "making any specific changes to the Safe Travels program."
Still, the idea that new restrictions could be imposed at any moment would make me nervous about booking another trip right now.
Related: Hawaii ends testing requirements
Hawaii residents are angry at over-tourism
Hawaii residents got a great break from tourists during the pandemic, one of the few bright spots in a dark time. Hawaii residents were able to explore their own lands without traffic and mostly tourist-free. It was the first time in most people's lives that the islands were empty.
After Hawaii relaxed its strict COVID-19 restrictions and allowed vaccinated visitors from the mainland to come test-free, airlines rushed to add flights and travel-hungry Americans booked everything available.
The flood of visitors has led to shortages of everything from restaurant workers to rental cars to hotel rooms.
Among the biggest complaints from residents is the terrible congestion that has returned with a vengeance to places like Oahu, the Big Island and even Maui's formidable Road to Hana.
It's gotten so bad that the mayor of Maui has even begged airlines to cut back on the number of flights.
At a news conference last month, Maui Mayor Michael Victorino said, “We don’t have the authority to say stop, but we are asking the powers to be to help us.”
According to the Hawaii Tourism Authority, Maui had just 1,054 visitors in May of 2020 during the height of the pandemic. Pre-pandemic, the last time the cries of over-tourism were this loud, Maui saw more than 251,000 arrivals. This May? More than 215,000. While those numbers are not higher than 2019, there has been a huge uptick in visitors since May.
The Maui mayor and residents are also up in arms over the iconic Road to Hana, with locals complaining that tourists are illegally parking on the tiny two-lane road, trespassing on private land on illegal hikes and slowing traffic to a crawl on the twisty road. When I drove the highway in July, I saw lots of handwritten signs warning tourists not to trespass. TPG's Zach Honig saw them too.
In 2019, Hawaii got a majority of its private income from tourism, including more than $2 billion in tax revenue, but the economic benefits don't always translate to good quality of life for Native Hawaiians.
Related: What it’s like to visit Maui with eased COVID-19 restrictions
I heard several locals complaining about the traffic when I was there. While the Hawaii residents I talked to were warm and welcoming, I could feel the frustration. It just doesn't feel like a great time to visit Hawaii.
It's crowded
When I was in Kauai in January of 2021, testing out the island's resort bubble program, I was one of very few tourists. By the time I was back in Hawaii and Oahu in March, it was like a light switch had been turned back on. The spring break crowds were back with a vengeance. Locals told me it happened almost overnight.
Related: Fair warning: Hawaii is crowded again
Hotels, not fully staffed or fully reopened in many cases, couldn't keep up with the crowds. It led to long lines for everything from checking in to ordering at Starbucks to waiting for elevators. It's not a great way to spend a vacation when coronavirus is still spreading.
While I didn't find Kaui and Maui as crowded as Honolulu when I went back in July, there were still a lot of people around at most beaches, restaurants and shopping centers I went to. I'm just not ready to go back until things calm down a bit.
Shortages
As pointed out above, there are shortages of everything at the moment in many places in Hawaii. The biggest shortages are for rental cars and restaurant reservations.
Restaurants and bars are again operating at only 50% capacity. There was a brief window when the government allowed them to operate at 75% capacity, but the surge in new COVID-19 cases means that most eateries now can only fill half their tables.
Even when they were briefly at three-quarters capacity, most restaurants couldn't keep up with demand. There is also a shortage of restaurant workers which means they can serve fewer meals.
Tourists are being advised to book dinner reservations well ahead of time — as much as months in advance. Even as a solo traveler, I wasn't able to score same-day reservations at the most popular spots (like The Dolphin in Poipu).
For my July trip, I knew it was bad because of the well-documented shortage of rental cars, but I wasn't expecting to see "sold out" everywhere. There were literally no cars available for Kauai or Maui in July.
Related: Renting a car with Turo during the car rental 'apocalypse'
I ended up renting a Turo in Maui, but I paid through the teeth for it, and it added several major layers of stress to the trip (I didn't even bother getting a car on Kauai). For my trip from the Sheraton to the airport, for example, I wasn't able to prebook a rental car and ended up relying on a local who offered to take me the day before just out of the aloha spirit. I was stressing about it during my two days at the hotel, which is no way to spend a vacation.
It's expensive right now
Shortages mean that prices are higher than normal for everything. While you can still occasionally find flight deals, hotels are really expensive and Airbnbs are too, if you can find availability.
I looked at rates for September in Maui and most of the major resorts started at $500 a night before resort fees. The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa started at more than $700 a night. The Ritz-Carlton was asking more than $1,600 a night. Even the airport Courtyard in Maui was more than $538 a night.
It was a similar story on Kauai, where the Hilton Garden Inn was sold out for the first half of September and then asking for $357 to $450 a night when they had rooms available at all.
It's true of rental cars and vacation rental companies too. If you want to go right now, it's going to cost you even if you try to do budget hotels.
Bottom line
I absolutely love Hawaii and I look forward to going back ... someday.
With the surge in coronavirus cases, escalating prices, crowds and the possibility of new restrictions, I'm going to hold off on booking any more trips for now. No doubt many Native Hawaiians -and Hawaii residents - are hoping more tourists make a similar decision.
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Intro offer
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Recommended Credit
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
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Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro Offer
You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
$325Recommended Credit
Credit ranges are a variation of FICO® Score 8, one of many types of credit scores lenders may use when considering your credit card application.Excellent to Good
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.