I had a free day in Denver and decided to take the ski train
This story has been updated to reflect the 2023 Winter Park Express ski train schedule.
Colorado is home to some of the best ski towns, not only in the U.S. but in the world.
The only problem is that the towns aren’t always easy to get to — most require a couple of hours’ drive, a flight or both. So, it was exciting when Amtrak announced the return of the Winter Park Express “ski train” following a hiatus for the 2020-2021 season.
Now, I must admit that I’m not a skier. Having spent most of my life in sunny Southern California, the only skiing I had done in the past was on the water.
However, the idea of taking a train straight from a major downtown to the slopes of a top ski resort intrigued me. So when I recently found myself with a free day in Denver, the ski train was the perfect excuse for me to give the slopes a try.
Schedule and booking
For the current season, the Winter Park Express runs every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from Jan. 13 through March 26,
It departs Denver Union Station (DEN) at 7 a.m. and arrives at Winter Park Resort (WPR) at 9 a.m. The return trip departs the resort at 4:30 p.m. and arrives in Denver at 6:40 p.m. This schedule aligns perfectly with the resort hours, which are from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Fridays and 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. on weekends. So, you’re basically guaranteed a full day on the slopes.
It’s also worth mentioning that Union Station is connected to Denver International Airport (DEN) by commuter trains, so it is possible to fly in and make your way to the slopes entirely by rail.
Booking the Winter Park Express is no different than booking any other train. Head to Amtrak’s website and enter DEN as your departure point and WPR as your destination.
One-way fares start at $34, with a special rate of $17 for children ages 2 to 12. Don’t worry about paying extra to bring your skis or snowboards on board. You’re allowed to bring two carry-on items, including skis and snowboards, as well as two personal items at no extra charge. Just remember lift tickets must be purchased separately through the resort.
Unfortunately, this route is not bookable with Amtrak Guest Rewards points.
The train
Amtrak has spare trains dedicated to this route. They’re painted in a custom Winter Park livery on the outside and have special branding on the inside.
The trains feature all-coach seating spread across two levels. Most cars are equipped with typical Amtrak seats, some upholstered in leather and others in fabric. Both types offer generous legroom, a comfortable recline and power outlets in every row.
Related: Why Winter Park Resort should be your next vacation destinationThe best seats, at least in my opinion, are those in the observation car — better known as the Sightseeing Lounge. While you’ll give up some legroom and recline if you sit here, the floor-to-ceiling windows make up for it, particularly on this scenic route.
In addition to the single seats, there are family seats with tables for groups of four. As in the other cars, all seats have direct access to power outlets. Seats in the observation car are first come, first served, and they fill up quickly. I recommend heading there right away if you want a spot. The observation car is a unique feature normally only found on long-distance trains but a staple of the Winter Park Express.
Below the window-filled lounge is a cafe that serves an assortment of packaged light snacks and drinks but no hot food.
The experience
My morning began at the crack of dawn at Denver’s historic Beaux Arts Union Station. I was staying at The Crawford Hotel inside the train station (review coming soon), so I was just a short walk away from the train.
The Winter Park Express always departs Union Station from Track 5. I had rented gear from the resort, so I was traveling light. However, there were volunteers to assist in loading skis and snowboards into the dedicated baggage storage area.
Additional storage space is available on board at the ends of the cars, as well as on overhead shelves. While everyone was allowed two carry-on items and two personal items, that didn’t appear to be strictly enforced.
Despite the early morning departure, there was a lot of energy on board. Everyone — both passengers and crew — seemed excited to be on the ski train. This helped to make the experience even more special. The conductor was also very chatty and passed through the cabin frequently to check on passengers.
What made the most lasting impression on me were the volunteers. Aside from just helping passengers load their gear, there were volunteers on board pointing out sights along the way, sharing various stories and, perhaps most importantly, answering questions about Winter Park.
There was no Wi-Fi on board, but people didn’t seem to mind — everyone’s eyes were stuck to the windows for much of the 67-mile ride anyway.
The views were truly stunning, and passengers, myself included, couldn’t help but take pictures at every turn. It sure beat the standstill traffic on Interstate Highway 70, which you’d normally take to drive to Winter Park.
A swift two hours later, the brakes screeched, and we arrived at Winter Park. Those returning to Denver later that day had the option of leaving some belongings on the train (as long as they didn't mind not being able to access those items until they returned at the day’s end).
Read more: Winter Park Express ski train is back — and tickets start at $34 one way
Again, there were volunteers to assist with unloading gear from the train.
The train stop couldn’t have been any more convenient. Upon arrival, we stepped off onto a heated platform — just 100 feet from the nearest ski lift. The rental shop and ski and ride school were also right there, so no shuttles were necessary.
After a successful day learning how to ski, I walked back to the train, was welcomed back by the same crew from the morning. Before I knew it, was on my way back to Denver. Easy peasy.
Bottom line
Thanks to the Winter Park Express, I was able to make the most of an extra day in Denver and learn how to ski in just a few hours' time.
It may not be the Polar Express, but it felt like the next best thing. It’s not every day that you get to wake up in a major metropolis, go skiing for the day and be back in time for dinner.
Additional reporting by Caroline Tanner.
TPG featured card
Rewards
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro offer
Annual Fee
Recommended Credit
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro Offer
You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
$325Recommended Credit
Credit ranges are a variation of FICO® Score 8, one of many types of credit scores lenders may use when considering your credit card application.Excellent to Good
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.