What it’s like visiting Maui after the fires — and is now the right time to head to Hawaii?

Hawaii wants you to visit.

Despite what you may have heard in the aftermath of the devastating Maui wildfires, Hawaii needs tourists to return. That's the message not just from those running tourism boards but from those who live there.

I've just returned from a trip to Oahu and Maui to see firsthand what it's like as the people of Hawaii recover from what state leaders call the worst natural disaster in its history.

At least 97 people were killed, and nearly the entire historic port of Lahaina burned to the ground, but despite the horrific disaster on that part of the island, most of Maui is physically untouched. Emotionally, of course, the disaster has impacted the entire island. However, at this point, tourism workers, local residents and Hawaiian officials all told me they need tourists to return to stabilize the already-battered economy of Maui and the wider Hawaiian Islands. While you can never put a price on the destruction the fire brought to people and lives, analysts estimate the fires caused a loss of between $4 and $6 billion to the state's economy.

On the ground, I found Maui little changed outside of the devastated Lahaina region, with the major caveat that tourists should stay out of fire-burned areas.

Visitors are welcome in Hawaii, including Maui

"The Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority is supporting residents who work in the hospitality industry and business owners who rely on visitors by encouraging mindful visitation to the island," Ilihia Gionson, public affairs officer at the Hawai'i Tourism Authority, said. "The best way to support Maui's recovery is for travelers to continue with their Maui vacations — don't cancel those trips."

Jeremy Kaialiilii, who helped deliver relief supplies to impacted families through his Epic Ministry church group, said he and other locals want people to come back, but just to be respectful. He told me that the Wailea area is eager for people to return. He also said the fires have made the community stronger. "I think the community is coming back together."

"Please come still," Noa Kamalu said during our November 2023 visit. He works doing ocean activities at one of the major resorts in Wailea, and he was born and raised on the North Shore of Maui. He continued, "We want you here. Just respect the area and where you are going ... our island does need tourism, and when people were saying 'don't come, don't come,' a lot of [us] were like, 'No, we need you to come.' Our island survives off tourism."

The truth is that there were indeed mixed messages regarding tourism in the aftermath of the fires and not just referencing immediate visits. Some locals said that visitors should stay away to respect the people who had lost so much. However, that message got spread a little too well or persisted perhaps too long for some small businesses and residents who rely on tourism dollars for their income.

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Tourism is down for much of Hawaii, according to the Hawaii Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism.

It's especially bad in Maui. According to the most recent statistics from the Hawaii Bureau of Business, Economic Development and Tourism, "In October 2023, there were 132,909 visitors on Maui, down significantly compared to October 2022 (-42.3%) and October 2019 (-44.2%)."

Visitor spending was down more than $100 million from last year and down 14% from pre-pandemic 2019.

Avoid the Lahaina area altogether

There have been problems with disaster tourism in Lahaina, unfortunately.

Kamalu said a lot of tourists are "being real nosy. They're not giving the people the space that they would want. A lot of the local residents just want them to make their way through Lahaina, if they're going to Kaanapali, to their hotels, they don't want them to stop because it's real hard for some of the people there still, and they are having a hard time just getting to their houses as well."

"Some people take it too far, Kamalu added, "They are getting out of their cars and walking into the areas where they're not supposed to be, or locals are trying to get in and out of Lahaina fast 'cause they have work, or they have things going on, and people are going real slow cause they just want to see things and keep pushing through. A lot of people are complaining about the traffic now in Lahaina just because people want to stop and check out what happened. Just try to give them their space."

"Try to leave Lahaina Town alone for just a little while," Kamalu continued. "... just to let them figure out what they need to do to help get things back up and going and putting things in motion to start rebuilding our Lahaina Town and all the houses that were burnt down."

My advice if you are planning a trip to Maui? Avoid the Lahaina area altogether.

Even though there are some hotels open again in Kaanapali, staying there would not be my first choice or recommendation at the moment. There have been protests over housing in West Maui, with locals saying displaced residents should get priority in places like Kaanapali. Indeed some local residents are still being housed in resorts in the area.

Gionson with the Hawai'i Tourism Authority echoed those statements. After saying that visitation is welcomed and encouraged, he also said, "We are asking for respectful, compassionate, responsible travel ... this includes staying away from the fire-affected area of Lahaina Town out of respect for the survivors and practicing patience and compassion with all."

Kaialiilii said the incidents that occurred in Lahaina with people walking and taking pictures, "... that's just a fraction with everyone else being respectful."

How else to be a good visitor to Maui

The most obvious thing is that visitors should not be taking photos of memorials or of fire damage, and taking selfies with anything of that nature is obviously a terrible idea.

Gionson suggested one way that visitors can express aloha is by refraining from asking local residents about what they have been through: "... a well-intentioned question may be unwelcome to a disaster survivor.

"Visitors can also malama (care for) the people of Maui by shopping at locally-owned businesses, eating at local restaurants and enjoying the many great activities and attractions throughout the rest of the island," Gionson said.

If you want to give back even more, there are an abundance of incredible volunteer opportunities in Hawaii. Why not spend a day of your trip working on a local farm or helping at a local food bank? You can volunteer to donate time (or money) at Mauinuistrong.info.

Try other parts of Maui, but don't skip the island

Kamalu suggested that visitors head to other parts of Maui. "Just because our Lahaina side is going through a rough time, we wanted people to come to the South side. We are open. We have a lot of rooms down here."

Indeed, that's one of the things I did during my stay. I spent several days in Wailea before a trip to Hana.

There is plenty to see and do in Maui without going near the Lahaina area. I spent several glorious nights at the Andaz Maui (review coming soon). Just down the coast is the Four Seasons Maui, where they filmed the first season of HBO's "White Lotus." With a plethora of resorts spread around the island, this is a good time to explore places that are a little more off-the-beaten-path.

In fact, my brother and I took a small plane to Hana, which is world-famous for the treacherous but beautiful Road to Hana. The Hana-Maui Resort is a World of Hyatt property and is simply gorgeous — more to come on my time in Hana, too.

And don't sleep on the North Shore, where it's less touristy and more rugged.

Bottom line

After my recent trip to Maui and Oahu, I can report that Hawaii is fully open for business outside of the area of the island that was directly impacted by the fire. Now may be a great time to visit as the number of tourists is down.

You'll find not only fewer crowds right now, but prices have moderated some since the height of the return-to-travel boom after pandemic-related restrictions were lifted. It's very important that visitors are respectful and avoid areas most affected by the fires. Don't be "that guy" who tries to do disaster tourism.

GoHawaii.com is the official travel site of the Hawaiian Islands and can be a great resource for those planning a trip. You can also visit Maui County's comprehensive website with information on volunteering and donating at www.mauinuistrong.info.

Kaialiilii had a great message — he has lots of hope for the recovery and the rebuilding processes. "Pray for everybody," he said. "Everyone is going to bounce back from this. Maui is still Maui ... the island is filled with a whole bunch of Aloha and love still."

"We still want you here," Kamalu shared. "We want everyone here. "

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