Mardi Gras is back: Tradition, parades and pickles
There are so many reasons to fall in love with New Orleans: the music, food, architecture, neighborhoods, people and atmosphere. Mardi Gras captures the vibrance and heart of the Big Easy.
After the coronavirus began rapidly spreading in and around the city shortly after Mardi Gras 2020 festivities, city officials opted to cancel Mardi Gras 2021 activities to discourage visitors from coming to New Orleans in the midst of a lockdown.
But with COVID-19 case numbers down and the world beginning to reopen again, the city brought back Mardi Gras 2022 — parades, floats, beads and large crowds included — and it was bigger than ever. To say this year's celebration was memorable would be a massive understatement.
From parades with larger-than-life floats to concerts with quirky costumes, here's a look at everything I enjoyed during Mardi Gras 2022.
Related: A beginner's guide to celebrating Mardi Gras in New Orleans
Lundi Gras' Proteus and Orpheus Parades, a prequel to the main event
While festivities start in January nearly two months before Mardi Gras, I zeroed in on the week of the main celebrations for this year's event.
To kick off Mardi Gras 2022, I staked out a spot at the southern end of the French Quarter by the Residence Inn New Orleans French Quarter Area/Central Business District (where I was staying) on Lundi Gras (the day before Mardi Gras Day) to watch the Proteus parade.
An evening parade organized by the Krewe of Proteus (one of more than two dozen groups that organizes a parade every year for Mardi Gras), this Lundi Gras event was a feast for the eyes. The krewe, which is named after the Greek mythological figure with ties to the sea, is known for its impressive aquatic-themed floats.
There were also various marching bands from schools throughout New Orleans to watch in between floats. Listening to these talented young musicians was a highlight for me; the music they made was far better than any beads I received.
Once the Proteus parade wrapped up, I stuck around for the Orpheus parade.
Orchestrated by the Krewe of Orpheus, a name that draws inspiration from the musically inclined figure in Greek mythology, this parade focused on, you guessed it, music. Singer and actor Harry Connick Jr. (one of the krewe's founders) made a royal appearance on the float.
Another highlight was the Smoking Mary, a long locomotive float composed of six separate parts.
The 610 Stompers, the first all-male dance troop in New Orleans, really pumped up the crowd with their synchronized dance moves, too. The choreography paired with songs by icons like Dolly Parton was just as awesome as it sounds.
Quintron and Miss Pussycat: A concert just as confusing as it was captivating
Following the end of Lundi Gras' two parades, my friend and I headed to One Eyed Jacks (a new location for the venue on Decatur Street) to catch a concert headlined by Quintron and Miss Pussycat, two local artists who regularly perform together around the city. This was far from your typical concert, though.
Concertgoers donned their Mardi Gras best (think: leopard print, sequins and elaborate headpieces) and danced for hours as Quintron performed under the stage name Bobby Mardi Gras alongside Miss Pussycat and others dressed as pickles.
The upbeat sound and keyboard-driven tunes were contagious, and I quickly found myself wrapped up in the moment forgetting about the oddity of what I was observing. It's no wonder this annual Lundi Gras tradition is a local favorite.
The culturally rich Zulu parade, a Fat Tuesday tradition
With a couple of hours of sleep under my belt the next morning, I headed to the corner of Jackson and South Claiborne avenues in the Central City neighborhood to watch the Zulu parade, the first of several that occur on Mardi Gras Day (aka Fat Tuesday).
Put together by one of the city's oldest groups, the Krewe of Zulu, the Zulu parade paid homage to the Zulu people of South Africa. Participants wearing face paint and elaborate feather attire interacted with the crowd while making their way along the parade route.
Instead of the typical Mardi Gras beads thrown during other parades, the Zulu parade featured a mix of hand-painted medallions and coconuts with different Zulu-themed designs. One of the best catches I made was of a meticulously decorated medallion featuring a Zulu warrior.
A Mardi Gras to remember
Once the Zulu parade finished, I found myself craving a New Orleans staple: beignets. So, I made my way to the beignet capital of New Orleans, Cafe du Monde, to get my fix.
As expected, the beignets (which I washed down with an iced chicory coffee) were the perfect sweet treat to help me refuel after a busy 24 hours.
While munching on the fluffy, powdered sugar-dusted concoctions, I couldn't help but reflect on my time in the Big Easy, unaware until that moment of just how much I needed this trip. It was the first time in years that I felt like I was enjoying a normal vacation very much like pre-pandemic travels. I'm sure that feeling would be even stronger now that the city has lifted its mask mandate for indoor and public spaces.
Related: Travel is back in a big way as COVID-19 appears to be entering endemic stage; Why I'm still nervous
It's no secret that New Orleans embraces its "Laissez les bons temps rouler" (or “Let the good times roll”) mantra, especially during Mardi Gras. No matter what your reason is for visiting, odds are you'll have an incredible time.
Although I'm not even two weeks into my absence from the city, I'm already eager to plan my next trip back.
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There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
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- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
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- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
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You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
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Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.