Skip to content

I jumped off a cruise ship in Antarctica and lived to tell the tale

Dec. 03, 2023
10 min read
BELINDA LUKSIC/FOR THE POINTS GUY
The cards we feature here are from partners who compensate us when you are approved through our site, and this may impact how or where these products appear. We don’t cover all available credit cards, but our analysis, reviews, and opinions are entirely from our editorial team. Terms apply to the offers listed on this page. Please view our advertising policy and product review methodology for more information.

I can barely breathe because of nerves … or is it excitement? Out across the bay, mountains thick with snow vanish into bleached skies. The sea glitters with ice.

I shrug off my robe, step out of my slippers and walk down to the water. The air is chill, the wet floor beneath my feet supremely cold. A small iceberg floats by and is soon gone, sped on by an unseen current. I shiver. No doubt about it, this is going to be cold.

There's no time to waste. With every ounce of courage, I run, jump and leap into the air.

Time slows.

Seconds feel like minutes.

Somewhere to my right is an inflatable boat and expedition crew, bundled up against the chill.

Mountains, icebergs, ice.

Then confusion as I go under.

A clanging fills my ears, the water so frigid, that I feel instantly disoriented. Everything hurts, the cold like a vice. It jolts me into action.

Daily Newsletter
Reward your inbox with the TPG Daily newsletter
Join over 700,000 readers for breaking news, in-depth guides and exclusive deals from TPG’s experts

Surfacing fast, I swim with jagged strokes to where a ladder strapped to a pontoon leads from the sea up to our ship, Atlas Ocean Voyages' World Voyager. The 198-passenger vessel's expedition team is standing by, ready to lend a neoprene-gloved hand to hoist me out of the sea.

Writer Belinda Luksic emerges from a plunge into icy Antarctica waters
Writer Belinda Luksic emerges from a plunge into icy Antarctica waters. BELINDA LUKSIC/FOR THE POINTS GUY

For the past week, this spot has been our launching pad for adventures in the Zodiac inflatable boats. Kitted up in thermals and Atlas-issued lime green polar jackets, our small group of 10 has carved a white path through diamond seas, bound for icebergs, penguins and snow-covered islands. We've stared spellbound at crevassed glaciers bigger than a suburb and spied seals dozing on ice floes.

This afternoon is very different. One by one, we check off the hottest ticket in Antarctica — plunging into the freezing 30-degree waters of the driest, highest continent on Earth.

Related: The ultimate guide to Atlas Ocean Voyages sailings

The ultimate ice bath

I'm no stranger to ice baths and the health benefits they bring, from reducing inflammation to accelerating muscle recovery and switching off the "fight-flight" that can lead to high cortisol and stubborn fat.

I've braved Sydney's Bondi Beach in winter, taken regular cold showers and dived headlong into near-freezing waters at the North Pole — that one on a 15-day cruise aboard the new luxury icebreaker, Le Commandant Charcot, from upscale line Ponant Cruises.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Belinda Luksic (@belindaluksic)

But nothing beats the heart-stopping chill of plunging into Antarctica's waters in late spring — or the camaraderie of sharing the exhilarating moment with 86 like-minded daredevils.

Navigating adventure

Just a week ago, 138 of us set off to Antarctica on the nine-night maiden voyage of World Voyager — fast-growing Atlas Ocean Voyages' third new ship in two years. Leaving Ushuaia, Argentina, behind, we met the roiling Drake Passage at peak shake, riding the churning 33-foot swell. In the days that followed, we staggered to mandatory safety briefings, polar boot and jacket fittings and gala dinners.

The more adventurous among us planned to kayak or camp overnight in the continent, snug in bivouac sleeping bags designed to withstand freezing temperatures. It's the kind of luxury that polar explorers of old, like Ernest Shackleton, could only dream about. Both activities came with a price tag. The polar plunge was free and open to all.

Related: Atlas Ocean adds expedition cruises to mainstream destinations

We moseyed around the South Shetland Islands, sidling into the flooded caldera of Deception Island. The active volcanic shield had erupted twice in the late '60s. At Pendulum Cove, the foundations of the Chilean research station were all that remained. An old whaling station haunted Whaler's Bay, our first sighting of penguins.

The spirit of expedition sailing

On the continent, the weather turned. Gale-force winds and heavy snowfall chased away blue skies and sunshine. Barrelling down the Gerlache Strait, we hit hurricane-strength 100-knot winds and a 16-foot swell. Wind-wracked, salt-lashed seas rose and fell.

On board, the tempest barely registered, ballasted as we were by the ship's twin Rolls-Royce stabilizers and the maneuvering of our Norwegian captain, Terje Ulset. I went to the gym and the sauna, watching the drama unfold through panoramic glass. At dinner, we lingered over cheese plates and dessert as waves rocked the ship. The Dome observatory lounge, on the top deck, was our port in a storm for late-night cocktails and cabaret.

As the wild weather continued, we pivoted. Landings were shuffled, and plans scuttled. First, the kayak, and then the overnight camp were canceled. The polar plunge looked set to suffer the same fate until day six dawned bright, white and promising.

The final countdown

We chanced frostbite on Cuverville Island, snapping photos of the cute gentoo penguins waddling to the summit. Come afternoon, it was Shackleton's fate we tempted, powering through fractured pack ice to touch the continent in lieu of a landing.

It wasn't long before the plunge deck was readied. We waited in the lounge for our group to be called, dressed in matching robes and slippers as if at a day spa. A pod of humpbacks entertained us. I watched the crew herd icebergs in the Zodiacs.

Down in the mud room, the excitement was contagious. There were selfies and laughter. People shuffled along in the queue, returning dripping wet and grinning. A belt was fixed to my waist, a tethering rope clipped to it before the jump. The ship's doctor stood by with a defibrillator (a precaution, I later discovered, rarely needed).

Related: I just spent the night in an igloo in Antarctica — here's how you can, too

World Voyager's godmother, Harpreet Kaur "Preet" Chandi, had joined us in Ushuaia for the ship's christening. Here was a woman who had skied solo to the South Pole, a two-month quest where winds howled and snow bit like sand. Did she have any words of wisdom to impart?

"Remember to enjoy every moment," she shot back with a smile.

I'm reminded of this as I stand dripping on the pontoon, the post-plunge high already kicking in. It wraps around me like a warm blanket as I do a victory lap onto the ship, cheers and applause ringing in my ear.

Planning a cruise? Start with these stories:

Featured image by BELINDA LUKSIC/FOR THE POINTS GUY
Editorial disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are the author’s alone, not those of any bank, credit card issuer, airline or hotel chain, and have not been reviewed, approved or otherwise endorsed by any of these entities.

TPG featured card

Best for businesses with high spending
TPG Editor‘s Rating
4.5 / 5
Go to review

Rewards

2 - 10X miles

Intro offer

LIMITED-TIME OFFER: Earn up to 400K bonus miles

Annual Fee

$395

Recommended Credit

740-850
Excellent

Why We Chose It

The Capital One Venture X Business Card has all the Capital One Venture X Rewards Credit Card has to offer and more. It offers an incredible welcome bonus and requires an equally impressive spend to qualify. In addition, the card comes with premium travel perks like annual travel credit. (Partner offer)

Pros

  • The Capital One Venture X business card has a very lucrative welcome offer.
  • In addition, the card comes with many premium travel perks such as an annual $300 credit for bookings through Capital One Business Travel.
  • Business owners are also able to add employee cards for free.

Cons

  • The card requires significant spending to earn the welcome offer.
  • Another drawback is that the annual travel credit can only be used on bookings made through Capital One Business Travel.
  • LIMITED-TIME OFFER: Earn up to 400K bonus miles: 200K miles when you spend $30K in the first 3 months, and an additional 200k miles when you spend $150k in the first 6 months
  • Earn unlimited 2X miles on every purchase, everywhere—with no limits or category restrictions
  • Earn 10X miles on hotels and rental cars and 5X miles on flights and vacation rentals booked through Capital One Business Travel
  • With no preset spending limit, enjoy big purchasing power that adapts so you can spend more and earn more rewards
  • Empower your teams to make business purchases while earning rewards on their transactions, with free employee and virtual cards. Plus, automatically sync your transaction data with your accounting software and pay your vendors with ease
  • Redeem your miles on flights, hotels and more. Plus, transfer your miles to any of the 15+ travel loyalty programs
  • Every year, you'll get 10,000 bonus miles after your account anniversary date. Plus, receive an annual $300 credit for bookings made through Capital One Business Travel
  • Receive up to a $120 credit for Global Entry or TSA PreCheck®. Enjoy access to 1,300+ airport lounges worldwide, including Capital One Lounge locations and Priority Pass™ lounges, after enrollment
  • Enjoy a $100 experience credit and other premium benefits with every hotel and vacation rental booked from the Premier Collection
  • This is a pay-in-full card, so your balance is due in full every month
Apply for Capital One Venture X Business
at Capital One's secure site
Terms & restrictions apply. See rates & fees
Best for businesses with high spending
TPG Editor‘s Rating
4.5 / 5
Go to review

Rewards Rate

2X miles2 miles per dollar on every purchase
5X miles5 miles per dollar on flights and vacation rentals booked through Capital One Business Travel
10X miles10 miles per dollar on hotels and rental cars booked through Capital One Business Travel
  • Intro Offer

    LIMITED-TIME OFFER: Earn up to 400K bonus miles
  • Annual Fee

    $395
  • Recommended Credit

    740-850
    Excellent

Why We Chose It

The Capital One Venture X Business Card has all the Capital One Venture X Rewards Credit Card has to offer and more. It offers an incredible welcome bonus and requires an equally impressive spend to qualify. In addition, the card comes with premium travel perks like annual travel credit. (Partner offer)

Pros

  • The Capital One Venture X business card has a very lucrative welcome offer.
  • In addition, the card comes with many premium travel perks such as an annual $300 credit for bookings through Capital One Business Travel.
  • Business owners are also able to add employee cards for free.

Cons

  • The card requires significant spending to earn the welcome offer.
  • Another drawback is that the annual travel credit can only be used on bookings made through Capital One Business Travel.
  • LIMITED-TIME OFFER: Earn up to 400K bonus miles: 200K miles when you spend $30K in the first 3 months, and an additional 200k miles when you spend $150k in the first 6 months
  • Earn unlimited 2X miles on every purchase, everywhere—with no limits or category restrictions
  • Earn 10X miles on hotels and rental cars and 5X miles on flights and vacation rentals booked through Capital One Business Travel
  • With no preset spending limit, enjoy big purchasing power that adapts so you can spend more and earn more rewards
  • Empower your teams to make business purchases while earning rewards on their transactions, with free employee and virtual cards. Plus, automatically sync your transaction data with your accounting software and pay your vendors with ease
  • Redeem your miles on flights, hotels and more. Plus, transfer your miles to any of the 15+ travel loyalty programs
  • Every year, you'll get 10,000 bonus miles after your account anniversary date. Plus, receive an annual $300 credit for bookings made through Capital One Business Travel
  • Receive up to a $120 credit for Global Entry or TSA PreCheck®. Enjoy access to 1,300+ airport lounges worldwide, including Capital One Lounge locations and Priority Pass™ lounges, after enrollment
  • Enjoy a $100 experience credit and other premium benefits with every hotel and vacation rental booked from the Premier Collection
  • This is a pay-in-full card, so your balance is due in full every month