I jumped off a cruise ship in Antarctica and lived to tell the tale
I can barely breathe because of nerves … or is it excitement? Out across the bay, mountains thick with snow vanish into bleached skies. The sea glitters with ice.
I shrug off my robe, step out of my slippers and walk down to the water. The air is chill, the wet floor beneath my feet supremely cold. A small iceberg floats by and is soon gone, sped on by an unseen current. I shiver. No doubt about it, this is going to be cold.
There’s no time to waste. With every ounce of courage, I run, jump and leap into the air.
Time slows.
Seconds feel like minutes.
Somewhere to my right is an inflatable boat and expedition crew, bundled up against the chill.
Mountains, icebergs, ice.
Then confusion as I go under.
A clanging fills my ears, the water so frigid, that I feel instantly disoriented. Everything hurts, the cold like a vice. It jolts me into action.
Surfacing fast, I swim with jagged strokes to where a ladder strapped to a pontoon leads from the sea up to our ship, Atlas Ocean Voyages’ World Voyager. The 198-passenger vessel’s expedition team is standing by, ready to lend a neoprene-gloved hand to hoist me out of the sea.
For the past week, this spot has been our launching pad for adventures in the Zodiac inflatable boats. Kitted up in thermals and Atlas-issued lime green polar jackets, our small group of 10 has carved a white path through diamond seas, bound for icebergs, penguins and snow-covered islands. We’ve stared spellbound at crevassed glaciers bigger than a suburb and spied seals dozing on ice floes.
This afternoon is very different. One by one, we check off the hottest ticket in Antarctica — plunging into the freezing 30-degree waters of the driest, highest continent on Earth.
Related: The ultimate guide to Atlas Ocean Voyages sailings
The ultimate ice bath
I’m no stranger to ice baths and the health benefits they bring, from reducing inflammation to accelerating muscle recovery and switching off the "fight-flight" that can lead to high cortisol and stubborn fat.
I’ve braved Sydney’s Bondi Beach in winter, taken regular cold showers and dived headlong into near-freezing waters at the North Pole — that one on a 15-day cruise aboard the new luxury icebreaker, Le Commandant Charcot, from upscale line Ponant Cruises.
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But nothing beats the heart-stopping chill of plunging into Antarctica's waters in late spring — or the camaraderie of sharing the exhilarating moment with 86 like-minded daredevils.
Navigating adventure
Just a week ago, 138 of us set off to Antarctica on the nine-night maiden voyage of World Voyager — fast-growing Atlas Ocean Voyages’ third new ship in two years. Leaving Ushuaia, Argentina, behind, we met the roiling Drake Passage at peak shake, riding the churning 33-foot swell. In the days that followed, we staggered to mandatory safety briefings, polar boot and jacket fittings and gala dinners.
The more adventurous among us planned to kayak or camp overnight in the continent, snug in bivouac sleeping bags designed to withstand freezing temperatures. It’s the kind of luxury that polar explorers of old, like Ernest Shackleton, could only dream about. Both activities came with a price tag. The polar plunge was free and open to all.
Related: Atlas Ocean adds expedition cruises to mainstream destinations
We moseyed around the South Shetland Islands, sidling into the flooded caldera of Deception Island. The active volcanic shield had erupted twice in the late '60s. At Pendulum Cove, the foundations of the Chilean research station were all that remained. An old whaling station haunted Whaler’s Bay, our first sighting of penguins.
The spirit of expedition sailing
On the continent, the weather turned. Gale-force winds and heavy snowfall chased away blue skies and sunshine. Barrelling down the Gerlache Strait, we hit hurricane-strength 100-knot winds and a 16-foot swell. Wind-wracked, salt-lashed seas rose and fell.
On board, the tempest barely registered, ballasted as we were by the ship’s twin Rolls-Royce stabilizers and the maneuvering of our Norwegian captain, Terje Ulset. I went to the gym and the sauna, watching the drama unfold through panoramic glass. At dinner, we lingered over cheese plates and dessert as waves rocked the ship. The Dome observatory lounge, on the top deck, was our port in a storm for late-night cocktails and cabaret.
As the wild weather continued, we pivoted. Landings were shuffled, and plans scuttled. First, the kayak, and then the overnight camp were canceled. The polar plunge looked set to suffer the same fate until day six dawned bright, white and promising.
The final countdown
We chanced frostbite on Cuverville Island, snapping photos of the cute gentoo penguins waddling to the summit. Come afternoon, it was Shackleton’s fate we tempted, powering through fractured pack ice to touch the continent in lieu of a landing.
It wasn’t long before the plunge deck was readied. We waited in the lounge for our group to be called, dressed in matching robes and slippers as if at a day spa. A pod of humpbacks entertained us. I watched the crew herd icebergs in the Zodiacs.
Down in the mud room, the excitement was contagious. There were selfies and laughter. People shuffled along in the queue, returning dripping wet and grinning. A belt was fixed to my waist, a tethering rope clipped to it before the jump. The ship’s doctor stood by with a defibrillator (a precaution, I later discovered, rarely needed).
Related: I just spent the night in an igloo in Antarctica — here's how you can, too
World Voyager’s godmother, Harpreet Kaur “Preet” Chandi, had joined us in Ushuaia for the ship’s christening. Here was a woman who had skied solo to the South Pole, a two-month quest where winds howled and snow bit like sand. Did she have any words of wisdom to impart?
“Remember to enjoy every moment,” she shot back with a smile.
I’m reminded of this as I stand dripping on the pontoon, the post-plunge high already kicking in. It wraps around me like a warm blanket as I do a victory lap onto the ship, cheers and applause ringing in my ear.
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There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
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- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
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Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro Offer
You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
$325Recommended Credit
Credit ranges are a variation of FICO® Score 8, one of many types of credit scores lenders may use when considering your credit card application.Excellent to Good
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.