Luxury treehouses and fabulous food in the wilds of Montana: My stay at Green O at Paws Up
Editor's Note
A meandering 40-minute drive from Missoula Montana Airport (MSO), along the rushing Blackfoot River, not one but two spectacular resorts sit tucked into the hushed forests of Greenough, Montana. Part of a family-owned working bison and cattle ranch, a cool 37,000 acres of pristine, mountain-facing wilderness is the backdrop for the dual-resort property, home to the family-friendly Resort at Paws Up and Green O at Paws Up.
Located at the very end of a private drive, just beyond a code-protected, lantern-flanked iron gate, Green O at Paws Up certainly looks like one of the most exclusive hideaways in the western U.S. In fact, as the gates parted to let the car pass through when I arrived earlier this spring, I felt like I'd been dropped cowgirl boots-first into an episode of "Succession."
But despite the cool austerity of its entrance, which bears the hotel's signature O-shape, Green O is a place replete with cheerful staff members (the type who know your name before you arrive), crackling fireplaces, cozy nooks and a distinct vibe that can only be described as hygge-meets-Wild-West (a winning combination, in my book). Featured on our list of the best adults-only all-inclusive hotels in the world, the property draws well-heeled honeymooners, off-duty business folk and wealthy adventure seekers looking to swap their slacks for Levi's and leave the bustle of cosmopolitan life for laid-back luxury, Montana-style.
When I checked into Green O at Paws Up this spring, I was swept off my feet (and up into the trees) by the impeccable service, the carefully crafted multicourse dinners and the chic, Scandinavian-style accommodations, mine being a two-floor treehouse built into the pines. Those who appreciate being immersed in the great outdoors — with a healthy dose of pared-back luxury — will want to consider booking a trip to this special pocket of Big Sky Country.
What is Green O at Paws Up?
Green O at Paws Up is an adults-only, all-inclusive resort in Greenough that sits on the grounds the aforementioned Paws Up Montana ranch and resort, which is family-friendly and also all-inclusive. Located on land once solely inhabited by members of the Blackfeet Nation, the Nez Perce Tribe and the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes of the Flathead Reservation, the acreage was originally purchased around 1915 by a rancher named Paul Greenough, who stocked herds of sheep that he branded with (fittingly) large green O's, hence the resort's emblem and name. The land was most recently purchased in the 1990s by the current owners, who expanded it to 37,000 acres of deeded and leased Montana land.
With 12 "hauses" of varying styles — designed mostly in-house (in-haus, if you will) by Dave Lipson, Laurence Lipson and Pieter De Liagre Bohl — Green O is certainly geared toward couples. Each haus was created specifically to accommodate two people in the coziest of atmospheres.
Nightly rates include all meals as well as a daily selection of wine, beer and cocktails, round-trip airport transfers, the use of luxury Lexus SUVs during the duration of your stay and a $500 credit per accommodation applied to any on-site activities and excursions.
Guests at Green O have full access to Paws Up Montana (the restaurants, facilities and activities center); however, guests staying at Paws Up Montana cannot enter Green O's side of the property.
How to book Green O
The best way to plan a stay at Green O is to book directly on the hotel's website, as the property is not currently part of a points or loyalty program or a credit card program like American Express Fine Hotels + Resorts. Rates tend to hover around $4,000 per night but can be closer to $3,000 per night during off-peak periods (I saw rates as low as $2,892 for January 2025).
While this is certainly considered the top tier of a steep nightly rate for an all-inclusive property in the U.S., the quality of inclusions (multicourse nightly meals from a James Beard-nominated chef, top-shelf liquors and luxury transport) is worth noting.
Keep in mind that a minimum stay of three nights is required from June through September and a minimum stay of two nights is necessary from October through May. (This may exclude events, packages and holidays.)
The location
As mentioned above, the location is perhaps one of the biggest draws of a trip to Green O. It's not every day that one finds oneself deep in the pastoral countryside of the American West, and to have the ability to roam across thousands of uninterrupted acres of Big Sky Country is pretty special.
Green O is certainly the type of resort you go to with the intention of staying on the property; guests don't often leave midtrip to go back to Missoula, for example. With plenty of activities to choose from (horseback riding and hiking, clay pigeon shooting and all-terrain-vehicle excursions, to name a few), cozy accommodations, delicious food and so many acres of wilderness to explore, there's not much reason to leave.
The accommodations feel one-of-a-kind
There are 12 Scandinavian-style hauses at Green O, with four categories: Tree Haus, Round Haus, Green Haus and Light Haus. Each has a slightly different — but equally striking — design that reflects the natural woodland surroundings, bringing the outside in through light-filled spaces, clean lines, interesting curves and stunning wood-paneled floors. All accommodations feature deep soaking tubs inside and hot tubs outside, ideal for nightly stargazing.
I was lucky enough to stay in one of the Tree Haus suites, which rise 23 feet into the air, suspended among the trees, and offer 1,030 square feet of space. From the gravel parking area (where I parked my personal Lexus, of course), I wound my way up a set of wooden and pebbled steps to the haus. Even though I was able to see some of the other hauses, they were far enough away from my own that it felt quite private.
Inside, at the glass-encased ground level, there was a small area to leave one's shoes, as well as walking sticks and snowshoes.
I ascended a beautiful iron-and-wood spiral staircase that wound up through the center of the two-story structure — a piece of art in its own right.
The first floor was the living area with floor-to-ceiling windows nearly all the way around the room, yielding striking views of the surrounding forest. Overlooking the porch and the trees beyond, there was a desk area with everything one might need to get a bit of work done.
In the center of the room was a pair of sumptuous, overstuffed chaise-style chairs facing the view (with a Samsung Frame TV, for those who want to cozy up with a movie after stargazing).
A sleek remote-controlled, glass-encased fireplace sat to one side of double doors, which revealed an outdoor living area, complete with more seating, a beautiful hand-hewn wooden table and a swing-style chair.
Back inside, on the other side of the spiral staircase, there was a small kitchen space featuring a counter-style seating area, a sink, a built-in drawer-style fridge with San Pelligrino seltzers and the same drawer-style freezer, a countertop Nespresso machine with pods, complimentary red wine and an assortment of delicious local snacks, plus two reusable water bottles for guests to keep.
Beyond the kitchen was what I considered the crown jewel of the first floor: a bathroom that I would gladly pay rent to live out the rest of my life in.
It featured a deep soaking tub surrounded by sleek black tiling, a hardwood floor with cozy faux-lambskin rugs, dual vanities with ample drawer space, Le Labo products, a full shower, a separate toilet area, and a washer and a dryer for easy laundry access. Of course, the sweeping view out into the trees was the cherry on top.
You get to sleep among the trees
I found the bedroom at the top of the second spiral staircase. With floor-to-ceiling windows on all sides of the room, it felt like being completely suspended within the towering pines.
Hygge vibes were really the name of the game in this space. The room featured a cozy four-poster king bed with softer-than-soft gray linen sheets and incredibly fluffy pillows, including a weighted blanket-pillow hybrid that I found very comforting.
A second woodstove sat against the far window, and there was a small wash closet with a toilet and a sink in addition to a large storage closet with clothing hangers, a safe and shelving. Two large glass doors opened onto a small patio overlooking the surrounding forest (complete with modern, woven chairs and a coffee table — ideal for enjoying morning coffee and pastries).
Sinking into those linen sheets at night, with the woodstove burning and a cool breeze coming in through the double doors, was bliss. And speaking of sleeping — before bedtime, I recommend popping outside to see the tree haus all lit up.
Personal hot tubs are ideal for stargazing
My favorite way to end the evening was by climbing into my personal hot tub, located just outside the tree haus, with a glass of wine in hand and my head tilted up to the stars.
I appreciated the added touch of a little post where one could hang a bathrobe and a towel. And Montana certainly lived up to its nickname as the Big Sky Country — each night was like catching a celestial show.
Dining at Green O is an experience unto itself
To say that the food alone is worth booking a trip to Green O really isn't an understatement. James Beard-nominated chef Brandon Cunningham is known for his eight-course dinners featuring locally sourced ingredients but also ingredients from further afield (think: in-season morels shipped from Washington state or shell fish flown in from the Pacific Northwest). Each dish is prepared with passion and intentionality; you'll find classic comfort dishes elevated in a haut cuisine fashion.
Cunningham helms the Social Haus, another striking, Scandinavian-style architectural feature of the property. This is the main space where guests gather to dine, drink and unwind around a glass-encased roaring fireplace. The space itself reflects the same nature-forward characteristic that the hauses have; three sides of the building are full floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the pines and hauses beyond, with wood-centric decor and furniture reflective of the surrounding forest.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are, of course, included in the nightly rate at Green O. Dinner is a fancy affair in that the presentation and the course-style meal are as elegant as can be; however, guests can certainly show up in denim and cowboy boots, if they please (dressing up is fine, too!) — it's really about whatever guests are most comfortable with.
During my stay, the weather was quite warm for spring, so several times I ate outside on the deck, fireside. Sitting near the indoor fireplace is ideal for cooler nights, and sitting right at the bar, watching chefs prepare meals in the open-air kitchen, is an exciting experience, too.
The dinner menu changes nightly — and for each course, a server (or even one of the chefs) will arrive tableside to explain the inspiration behind the dish. Cocktails, select wines, beers and spirits are also part of the all-inclusive programming.
On my first evening, I enjoyed halibut with in-season ramps, hamachi and wild onion; a delectable combination of celeriac and morel; sumptuous salmon; duck prepared over pureed parsnip; yuzu with berries; and a delicious pineapple and ginger dessert. My favorite wine on the menu was the 2022 Rombauer chardonnay, fitting for a seafood-forward menu.
For lunch, my favorite dish was the rich tenderloin prepared with beans and squash — which paired very nicely with a blood orange mocktail.
Breakfast included menu items like potatoes with a spicy romesco sauce, a fancy play on cereal that involves pate a choux and white chocolate ganache, and buttermilk steak with eggs.
Activities
While it would be entirely acceptable to spend the duration of one's stay at Green O tucked fireside into fresh linen sheets and taking leisurely meals at the Social Haus, there are so many opportunities to get outside and have a true Montana ranch experience. From cattle driving to shooting sport, fly-fishing to horseback trail rides through the stunning scenery, the 37,000-acre property that makes up Green O and Paws Up Montana offers a plethora of Western-inspired activities.
Green O's nightly rate includes a $500 credit for these various activities, and I highly recommend taking advantage of at least one or two.
Head down the road to the Wilderness Outpost at Paws Up, and a team of staff will get you squared away with whichever activity strikes your fancy. Don't forget to peruse the goodies at the Outpost (think: cowboy hats, locally crafted jewelry, clothing and Western-inspired souvenirs).
Take a guided ATV tour through winding trails past the rushing river and fields of grazing bison, jump into a full-on cattle drive experience or get to know the local horses through a calming trail ride around the property.
Reasons Green O might not be for you
There are several reasons why this special property might not be every traveler's cup of tea:
- The location is quite rural, so once you make it to the property, you'll likely be staying there for the duration of your stay (though there is more than enough to keep one occupied for quite some time). Those in search of vibrant nightlife might find Green O too quiet and remote compared with the busier scene in nearby Missoula.
- Green O comes with a very hefty price tag that makes it inaccessible to many, so if you're sticking to a tight vacation budget, you may want to stay elsewhere.
- Those traveling with families will want to check into Paws Up Montana instead of Green O at Paws Up, as the latter is geared toward adults and honeymooners.
- Green O doesn't offer accessibility options.
Accessibility
Unfortunately, one area where Green O does not shine is in the accessibility department. There is only one haus touted as wheelchair accessible, and there are no features on the property specifically for those with visual or audio impairments. The resort's website does not have an accessibility section, and upon contacting Green O, we learned that it's simply not a very accessible property.
Just down the road at Paws Up, guests with accessibility needs can find more options, including two Americans with Disabilities Act-compliant accommodations and wheelchair accessibility throughout most facilities.
Checking out
Because I'm the type of person who loves to be in a remote, outdoor-focused atmosphere — while knowing I can tuck into a sumptuous fireside bed at the end of the night — Green O felt like a tonic in resort form. Those who appreciate spending time wandering and adventuring outside and have an affinity for both luxury, design-forward accommodations and the allure of the Western U.S. will appreciate a stay here.
Though it comes with a very steep price tag, between the cozy, intimate accommodations and the inspiring cuisine, Green O feels worth it for those looking to spend a pretty penny on an all-inclusive, adults-only getaway in this price range.
Related reading:
TPG featured card
at American Express's secure site
Terms & restrictions apply. See rates & fees.
| 3X | Earn 3X Miles on Delta purchases. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Miles on all other eligible purchases. |
Pros
- Delta SkyClub access when flying Delta
- Annual companion ticket for travel on Delta (upon renewal)
- Ability to earn MQDs through spending
- Various statement credits for eligible purchases
Cons
- Steep annual fee of $650
- Other Delta cobranded cards offer superior earning categories
- Earn 100,000 Bonus Miles after you spend $6,000 or more in purchases with your new Card within the first 6 months of Card Membership and an additional 25,000 bonus miles after you make an additional $3,000 in purchases on the Card within your first 6 months, starting from the date that your account is opened. Offer Ends 04/01/2026.
- Delta SkyMiles® Reserve American Express Card Members receive 15 Visits per Medallion® Year to the Delta Sky Club® when flying Delta and can unlock an unlimited number of Visits after spending $75,000 in purchases on your Card in a calendar year. Plus, you’ll receive four One-Time Guest Passes each Medallion Year so you can share the experience with family and friends when traveling Delta together.
- Enjoy complimentary access to The Centurion® Lounge in the U.S. and select international locations (as set forth on the Centurion Lounge Website), Sidecar by The Centurion® Lounge in the U.S. (see the Centurion Lounge Website for more information on Sidecar by The Centurion® Lounge availability), and Escape Lounges when flying on a Delta flight booked with the Delta SkyMiles® Reserve American Express Card. § To access Sidecar by The Centurion® Lounge, Card Members must arrive within 90 minutes of their departing flight (including layovers). To access The Centurion® Lounge, Card Members must arrive within 3 hours of their departing flight. Effective July 8, 2026, during a layover, Card Members must arrive within 5 hours of the connecting flight.
- Receive $2,500 Medallion® Qualification Dollars with MQD Headstart each Medallion Qualification Year and earn $1 MQD for each $10 in purchases on your Delta SkyMiles® Reserve American Express Card with MQD Boost to get closer to Status next Medallion Year.
- Enjoy a Companion Certificate on a Delta First, Delta Comfort, or Delta Main round-trip flight to select destinations each year after renewal of your Card. The Companion Certificate requires payment of government-imposed taxes and fees of between $22 and $250 (for itineraries with up to four flight segments). Baggage charges and other restrictions apply. Delta Basic experiences are not eligible for this benefit.
- $240 Resy Credit: When you use your Delta SkyMiles® Reserve American Express Card for eligible purchases with U.S. Resy restaurants, you can earn up to $20 each month in statement credits. Enrollment required.
- $120 Rideshare Credit: Earn up to $10 back in statement credits each month after you use your Delta SkyMiles® Reserve American Express Card to pay for U.S. rideshare purchases with select providers. Enrollment required.
- Delta SkyMiles® Reserve American Express Card Members get 15% off when using miles to book Award Travel on Delta flights through delta.com and the Fly Delta app. Discount not applicable to partner-operated flights or to taxes and fees.
- With your Delta SkyMiles® Reserve American Express Card, receive upgrade priority over others with the same Medallion tier, product and fare experience purchased, and Million Miler milestone when you fly with Delta.
- Earn 3X Miles on Delta purchases and earn 1X Miles on all other eligible purchases.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees. Enjoy international travel without additional fees on purchases made abroad.
- $650 Annual Fee.
- Apply with confidence. Know if you're approved for a Card with no impact to your credit score. If you're approved and you choose to accept this Card, your credit score may be impacted.
- Terms Apply.
- See Rates & Fees