A retro renovation on Route 66: My stay at a modern-day motor lodge
The prevalence of highway and air travel has rendered Route 66 virtually obsolete as a means of getting from point A to point B, but luckily there are a number of proprietors focused on reinvigorating attendance to and preserving the history of this historic roadway.
As a lover of road trips and all things retro, when I learned a renovated motor lodge had opened along Route 66 in Flagstaff, Arizona, around the same time my family was planning our first visit to the Grand Canyon, I knew we had to book a stay.
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Quick take
The High Country Motor Lodge has lived many lives. The property did stints as a paper mill, a Howard Johnson and a Days Inn before finding new life as a boutique hotel. The rustic aesthetic was elevated by luxurious Malin + Goetz bath amenities (a personal favorite), soft bedding and plush furnishings, and the vintage vibes were bolstered by in-room tape decks and mixtapes and midcentury-inspired fixtures.
Related: The motor lodge is cool again: How old motels are getting chic new lives
The guest rooms surround an inviting courtyard with a large pool, fire pits and lawn games to encourage families, friends and soon-to-be-friends to gather. The communal aspect — something that is becoming rarer in an age where you can check in to your hotel and order room service without interacting with a live human — turned out to be my favorite thing about the hotel.
Getting there
Although Flagstaff is just over two hours from Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (PHX), it is the closest major international airport to the northern Arizona town. American Airlines and United Airlines both fly into Flagstaff Pullium Airport (FLG) if you want to skip the drive, but unless you are flying from a few select cities like Denver or Dallas, you'll probably spend more money and time getting there than simply flying into Phoenix.
Because Arizona's natural beauty is prime road trip real estate, we flew into Phoenix and thoroughly enjoyed the scenic journey to Flagstaff.
Booking details
The property has 120 guest rooms and suites and three stand-alone "Cosmic Cottages." Rooms have either one king or two queen beds, and accessible and pet-friendly rooms are available.
Room rates start at $119 per night for a standard room, $134 for a courtyard view and $319 for a Cosmic Cottage. My family of five paid $229 per night for a courtyard-view room with two queen beds (my children are small enough to share a bed ... for now).
High Country Motor Lodge does not participate in any of the major loyalty programs, but it is bookable through travel rewards platforms like the American Express Travel portal. Cash prices are equal to booking directly with the hotel and points pricing starts at 17,000 Amex Membership Rewards points per night.
Standout features
- We spent most of our time at the hotel in the gathering areas. We played foosball, pool and board games, sipped craft beers in the lounge and made friends with other families in the courtyard.
- My children had never seen a cassette tape before this trip. My 5-year-old became obsessed with playing the provided mixtapes for us and made sure to put on the nighttime mix before bed.
- While not included in the cost of our stay, the breakfast at The General Store was well worth the price. My egg sandwich was served on a brioche bun with pancetta, smoked provolone and a perfectly runny egg, and my kids could hardly choose a favorite from the fresh pastries.
Drawbacks
- There was no closet or chest of drawers in the guest room, which left only a clothing rack, wall hooks or under-bed floor space for storage.
- Our room had only one tiny waste bin, which we filled up (and emptied ourselves) multiple times during our two-night stay.
- The pool is not heated. We visited in the middle of July and the water was cold enough that my kids only swam for 15 minutes before bundling up in towels and relaxing in the lounge chairs.
- There was no shelf in the shower for toiletries.
The vibe
In my opinion, all the best things Arizona has to offer are outside. High Country Motor Lodge encourages guests to get outside for activities and gorgeous mountain views, but also does an exceptional job of bringing the outdoors in with an earthy palette of blues and greens, camp-style mugs and big, bright windows inside the guest rooms.
Although it's been fully renovated, you still get a sense of the hotel's history and it's easy to see how much care went into retaining the motor lodge feel. The draped exposed wire on the overhead lamp and vintage-style minifridge felt like they could have been there for decades, though I presume both are new.
The room
We stayed in a courtyard-view room with two queen beds. All of the courtyard-view rooms are close to the pool, but I prefer the first-floor rooms for quick and easy access to the pool and other amenities.
Inside, the room had white walls and crisp, white bedding, but the door and accents were painted in a blue almost as dark as the night sky. The chairs were upholstered in a green similar to the pine trees outside our door and there was a small table with a leather catch-all tray.
Without a closet or dresser, storage options were limited to a row of hooks on the wall, a clothing rack with one shelf and the area underneath the beds. The area outside the bathroom housed a minifridge, coffee and tea maker (and the appropriate amenities), vanity and sink and a full-length mirror.
The toilet and shower were separated from the vanity area by a door (that lacked a lock). Due to the building's age, I imagine, the toilet lacked flushing power. Surprisingly, though, the shower had the best water pressure I've found in any hotel to date.
The 50-inch flat-screen TV had streaming capabilities that were simple to set up with a QR code.
The hotel forwent in-room phones and opted for a text service. I didn't use the service during my stay, but I certainly didn't miss the in-room phone.
Food and drink
The General Store is a dining outlet and full-service bar in the main lobby. In the morning, you can get hot and cold coffee drinks, cold items like granola and chia seed pudding, fresh pastries and warm breakfast sandwiches. Later in the day, there's salad, pizza and sandwiches.
My breakfast sandwich cost $10 and came with a side of grapes. Definitely not a budget breakfast, but it was tasty enough that I didn't mind.
Related: Which hotel has the best free breakfast? TPG ate 10 meals to find the winner
The lounge menu was not only varied but interesting, as well. I opted for a local IPA from Mother Road Brewing down the road from the hotel. My husband had The Ring of Fire, a custom boilermaker — one of four on the menu — made with a passion fruit lager and a shot of mezcal.
The lobby also houses a small grab-and-go shop with drinks, snacks, souvenirs (including a take-home set of the in-room mixtapes) and replacements for anything you may have forgotten at home.
Amenities and service
The service during our stay was outstanding, and not just because everyone we interacted with was wearing tan Dickies-style overalls. When the front desk agent saw we were traveling with kids, she placed us in an easy-access first-floor room. When our cassette player wasn't working properly at check-in, a new one was waiting for us when we returned from a day of adventuring.
We took full advantage of the board and table games in The General Store and the pool (until it became too cold to take), but because we visited so soon after the hotel's opening, the hot tub and Nordic spa weren't quite ready for guests.
The three-hour time zone change sent me to bed fairly early during our stay, but before I went to bed I saw large groups huddled near the fire pits, talking and laughing together instead of checking how many likes they received on their last Instagram post.
Out and about
I live where I do because I can easily walk to the library, the gym and my favorite coffee shop. I look for easy walkability when choosing a hotel and the High Country Motor Lodge certainly ticked that box. There were plenty of dining options and even the local Mother Road Brewery within walking distance.
Related: This is Bill Marriott’s favorite hotel: Here’s why the TPG staff loved it
If you hop in the car and venture out a bit farther, you can see the night sky at the Lowell Observatory, visit the Barringer Crater or head to historic Williams, Arizona, the last town to have its section of Route 66 bypassed by highways.
Accessibility
The hotel's accessible rooms are designed with roll-in showers, shower seats, grab bars and other features to accommodate wheelchairs. Hearing-accessible rooms with strobe fire alarms and doorbells are also available. The common areas of the hotel are located outside in the courtyard or in a one-story building that is also wheelchair accessible.
Checking out
The best hotels are more than just a place to sleep on vacation — they are part of the vacation. High Country Motor Lodge provided some of my family's happiest memories during our Grand Canyon vacation and I think a "laid-back luxury" motor lodge may be my new favorite type of hotel.
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Rewards
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro offer
Annual Fee
Recommended Credit
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro Offer
You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
$325Recommended Credit
Credit ranges are a variation of FICO® Score 8, one of many types of credit scores lenders may use when considering your credit card application.Excellent to Good
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.