Southern charm and modern style: TPG's guide to Savannah, Georgia
Editor's Note
The historic shipping port city of Savannah, Georgia, set on the Savannah River separating South Carolina from Georgia, has a lively arts and culture scene, delicious cuisine and gorgeous parks and gardens. Settled in 1733 by General James Oglethorpe (who was also the urban planner behind Savannah's famous squares), Savannah has thrived since its time as the original capital city of the Peach State.
But this centuries-old city is far from stuck in the past.
If you are planning a visit to "The Hostess City," here are our tips on where to stay and what to do so you can experience Savannah's rich history and modern sensibilities in equal part.
How to get to Savannah
For perspective, Savannah is about a four-hour drive southeast of Atlanta and about two hours north of Jacksonville, Florida.
If you are flying, Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport (SAV) is the closest airport. Aside from being one of the most adorable airports in the U.S. (the brick-lined walkway, rocking chairs and greenery make it feel like you are walking through a town square), it has nonstop flights from more than 30 destinations, including major cities like New York City, Miami, Boston and Chicago. You'll find the biggest selection of direct flights from Delta, Southwest, American and Allegiant.
From the airport, you can expect a 20- to 30-minute drive into town, depending on which neighborhood you are visiting. Uber, Lyft and car rentals are all available from the airport. A standard ride-hailing service fare into town will cost you between $20 and $30.
If you want to add a day or two at the beach to your Savannah trip, Tybee Island is 30 minutes away, and Hilton Head Island is just under an hour away.
Where to stay in Savannah
Stay in or near Savannah's Historic District, a walkable area with stately homes stretching from the Savannah Riverwalk to Forsyth Park. It offers easy access to shops, restaurants and scenic views.
Here are a few of our favorite hotel options near there:
Thompson Savannah
Located on the banks of the Savannah River, the Thompson Savannah has 193 guest rooms and suites that marry midcentury modern design with elegant details like floral accent pillows and velvet settees near floor-to-ceiling windows.
This full-service property has a fitness center, complimentary bicycle rentals, an outdoor pool with lounge seating and private cabanas, and several dining options, including a coffee shop, lobby bar and the city's tallest rooftop bar and restaurant.
The Thompson Savannah participates in the Amex Fine Hotels + Resorts program. When you book through Amex Travel using The Platinum Card® from American Express or The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, you will receive benefits like early check-in when available and guaranteed late checkout, complimentary breakfast for two and a $100 property credit to use during your stay.
You can also take advantage of these cards' up to $600 per calendar year statement credits for this hotel, since it participates in the Fine Hotels + Resorts program.
Rates at the Thompson Savannah start at $228 or 20,000 World of Hyatt points per night.
JW Marriott Savannah Plant Riverside District
The 1912 building that houses the JW Marriott Savannah Plant Riverside District was a power plant until the city decommissioned it in 2005. Although the exterior may be over a century old, some of what you'll find inside the hotel, which opened in 2020, is even older.
In the lobby, you'll find relics from the hotel's past life, as well as a collection of gemstones, geodes fossils and a 135-foot chrome-dipped dinosaur fossil replica. The hotel has more than 10 dining venues, a rooftop pool and lounge, three fitness centers and direct access to the Savannah Riverwalk.
The 419 guest rooms are spread across three buildings: the refurbished Power Plant, the modern Atlantic and the elegant Three Muses. You can opt for an atrium-view room in the Power Plant building that overlooks the museumlike lobby.
Rates at the JW Marriott Savannah Plant Riverside District start at $277 or 59,000 Marriott Bonvoy points per night.
Hotel Bardo
Hotel Bardo marries coastal Italian style with Southern hospitality in a property that is part hotel, part private members club. We were so impressed by this boutique property that it landed a spot on TPG's list of the top hotel openings of 2024.
Guest rooms are elegant and chic, with a soft color palette, gold accents and in-room amenities like a Nespresso coffee maker, Corpus bath products and a Dyson hair dryer. Hotel Bardo offers a variety of room types, including poolside suites and family suites, in addition to standard rooms.
During your stay, you can enjoy the outdoor pool, fitness center with complimentary classes, cooking lessons and more. Thanks to its convenient Forsyth Park location, you can easily explore the area and the nearby SCAD Museum of Art.
Eligible cardholders who book through the Amex Fine Hotels + Resorts collection will receive perks like early check-in upon availability, guaranteed late checkout, complimentary breakfast for two and a $100 property credit to use during their stay.
Rates at Hotel Bardo start at $259 per night.
Perry Lane Hotel
The Perry Lane Hotel, part of Marriott's Luxury Collection, is an upscale property in the heart of the Historic District, about half a mile from the waterfront. The hotel's sleek, contemporary design still feels inviting, with artwork to explore in the public spaces and a rooftop pool and lounge that practically beg you to "sit a spell" with a wine or handcrafted cocktail.
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No two of the 167 guest rooms and suites are exactly alike, with unique artwork, cozy furnishings, individualized details and upscale amenities, including Frette Italian linens, slippers, robes and luxury bath products from Molton Brown.
The Perry Lane Hotel also participates in the Amex Fine Hotels + Resorts program and offers the above perks. You can also earn Marriott Bonvoy points when you book through Amex Travel.
Rates at the Perry Lane Hotel start at $263 or 56,000 Marriott Bonvoy points per night.
Where to eat and drink in Savannah
Known for its Southern hospitality, Savannah has amazing restaurants for both casual fare and award-winning fine dining. Be sure to check out the local beer and cocktail menus, too. Almost every place we visited had a version of Chatham Artillery Punch, a mix of bourbon, cognac, rum, black tea, lemon and sparkling wine served in Savannah's drinking establishments since the late 1700s.
Wexford
An Irish pub in the heart of the Historic District, Wexford is open for lunch and dinner. Its name is a nod to the county where over half of Georgia's Irish population can trace their roots to the mid-1800s potato famine migration. Menu favorites include a Celtic knot giant pretzel made for sharing, traditional beer-battered fish-and-chips, and a pan-seared cod entree with a light lemon, butter and garlic sauce, served with sauteed spinach and blistered tomatoes.
B. Matthews Eatery
B. Matthews Eatery serves breakfast, brunch and lunch daily, with dinner service nightly (except Sunday and Monday) in a historic brick house on Bay Street. Sip on a Georgia Peach Old Fashioned while you peruse the menu — our group appreciated the variety of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options in addition to Southern favorites like shrimp and grits, all sourced from local purveyors.
The Pirate's House
The Pirate's House opened in 1753 as an inn for seafarers passing through the area. Today, it operates as a restaurant and tavern — open daily for lunch and dinner — that plays heavily into its storied past. While you dine on dishes like shrimp and grits, crabcakes and seared ahi tuna, you'll be surrounded by history ... and possibly the ghosts of a few pirates who went to Davy Jones' locker too soon.
Vic's on the River
On the riverfront in a stately restored cotton warehouse, you'll find Vic's on the River serving local seafood favorites and contemporary Southern food like fried green tomatoes, she crab soup and fried chicken for lunch and dinner every day of the week.
The Grey
If you are seeking Southern comfort food, don't skip dinner at The Grey, which earned its Michelin star in 2021. A collaboration between owner Johno Morisano and chef Mashama Bailey (James Beard Award-winner for Best Chef of the Southeast in 2019), it is housed in a renovated 1938 art deco Greyhound bus terminal. Chef Bailey's 28-day dry-aged ribeye and grilled fish are mouth-watering. Be sure to pair either with mashed potatoes and collard greens for a true Southern treat. The Grey serves dinner Tuesday through Sunday, as well as Sunday brunch.
Family-friendly activities in Savannah
While Savannah certainly lends itself to adults-only getaways, the city is also very family-friendly, with ample opportunities for education and fun.
In addition to traditional art museums like the SCAD Museum of Art and the Telfair Academy, which may appeal more to adults, several of Savannah's museums offer programming just for children. The Savannah Children's Museum is an outdoor museum that encourages kids to explore and play, and the Telfair Children's Art Museum in the Jepson Center has interactive exhibits and events, such as weekly storytime.
Kids can learn more about Georgia's coastal marine environments at the UGA Marine Education Center and Aquarium about 30 minutes from downtown on Skidaway Island. They can also discover more about the city at the Savannah History Museum or satisfy their train obsession at the Georgia State Railroad Museum.
If your kids are into baseball, introduce them to the silly side of the sport at a Savannah Bananas game. If you aren't familiar with "banana ball," it's more fast-paced (games have a two-hour time limit) and entertaining than America's traditional pastime. For instance, if a fan catches a ball, it is considered an "out." Walks and bunting are not allowed, and you'll likely be treated to some in-game dancing.
When exploring the city's historic parks, homes and monuments, try a "hop on, hop off" trolley tour through Old Town Trolleys. One-day and two-day tickets are available, and both allow for unlimited all-day access to the tour's 15 stops. Make one of those stops the Savannah City Market. You'll find dozens of shops, galleries and restaurants here, including Byrd Cookie Company and Savannah's Candy Kitchen.
Nightlife in Savannah
Savannah comes alive at night ... or so they say on the Old Town Trolley Tours. For an entertaining night, check out the Ghost and Gravestones Frightseeing Tour (90 minutes, starting at $37 per person) to visit historic and reportedly haunted sites around the Historic District, like the Andrew Low House and the Perkin's & Son's Ship Chandlery (where you'll experience a bit of the paranormal firsthand).
The one-of-a-kind American Prohibition Museum, with displays and artifacts detailing the history of bootleggers and temperance, gives a peek into the early 20th century and the passing of the 18th Amendment. The adult ticket price ($29.91) includes a cocktail in the hidden speakeasy toward the exhibit's end.
Fast forward a century, and you can now take your cocktails to go in Savannah: An open container ordinance in the Historic District allows you to take your drink with you in a paper or plastic cup within the boundaries of West Boundary Street to the railroad tracks beyond East Broad Street and from Jones Street in the south up to the city's northern limits at the Savannah River. Happy hour doesn't have to end when you can stroll to dinner with your Chatham Artillery Punch.
Bottom line
Savannah expertly blends its historic roots and Southern charm with fresh and modern hotels, dining and entertainment. Experience the best of both worlds in Savannah's idyllic squares lined with mossy oaks, historic buildings that have been given new life as stylish hotels and restaurants and dozens of family-friendly museums and activities.
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