Your Layover Guide to Rome (FCO)
Our “Your Layover Guide” series features airports and destinations around the world where you’re likely to be stuck between flights, offering tips on navigating and spending time in the airport, as well as some things to do if you find yourself with time to explore the nearby city. Today, TPG Contributor Nicholas du Pont guides us through Rome's Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino International Airport.
Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino (FCO), served by over 90 airlines flying to five continents, is one of Europe’s busiest airports. It's Alitalia’s hub and headquarters, a focus city for EasyJet and Vueling and a hub for Italian airlines Meridiana fly and Blue Panorama. FCO has been haphazardly expanded since its opening in the early 60s and lacks an organized flow, but it still has its advantages. It’s well linked to the city by rail; you can fly almost anywhere in Europe nonstop; and, of course, a good meal and good shopping are close at hand — as is the case in most of Italy.
At the Airport
Special Features
At FCO, Boingo-provided Wi-Fi is free throughout all terminals. There are several 24-hour First Aid Aeroporti di Roma pharmacies throughout the airport: at Terminal 1's check-in area; Terminal 3's Departures level; just before Boarding Area D in Terminal 3; and beyond the security checkpoint in Terminal 5. There's also a branch of Poste Italiane, the Italian postal service, in the Arrivals zone of Terminal 1 (open Monday to Friday, from 8:30am - 3:30pm).
In Terminal 3, there are four baby care stations (at boarding areas D, G, H and by the check-in area) and two chapels (Catholic/Christian and multi-denominational).
If you're traveling to or from the US on an American carrier (rather than Alitalia), your check-in formalities will be completed at Terminal 5, which is separated from the rest of the airport; to travel to/from it, you must take one of the airport-provided shuttles from the main terminal. This shuttle is free and runs every fifteen minutes, but it's better to leave extra time and be safe rather than left behind.
Shopping
There’s no shortage of shopping options at Fiumicino's Terminal 3. Almost all flights to the States actually leave from this terminal's concourse G; you’ll be shuttled here from Terminal 5, and at the top of the escalator and straight ahead, you'll find a duty-free shop. Inside on your right is an Italian Gourmet section with pastas, olive oil and panettone galore — in addition to the usual chocolates, perfumes and alcohol. Spread out around the concourse, you’ll also find all of the usual Italian brand-name luxury goods stores, like Gucci and Prada. Check the Aeroporti di Roma website for the latest sales going on at the airport shops.
Dining
Just as with anywhere else in Italy, you can eat very well for relatively little at Fiumicino. Again, most flights to the US depart from concourse G. When you get to the top of the escalator, hook a 90-degree right and you’ll see the enormous food court. Here you can find just about everything your Italian-food-loving heart desires, from paninis to pizzas and pastas. I always stop at the Lavazza Mokà coffee bar here for a cappuccino before getting on the plane, and the quality of the wine and drinks at Santè is just as good as at any bar in Rome — including the authentic Aperol Spritz.
Luggage Storage
Luggage storage is available in Terminal 3, and it's open daily from 6:30am - 11:30pm. There's a flat €6 (about $7) per piece per 24 hours (or less), and payment is made at pick-up.
Transport to the City Center
Getting into town from Fiumicino is quite easy, and the fastest way by far is to take the train. The Leonardo Express trains run every 30 minutes and takes 32 minutes to reach Termini, nonstop. Tickets are €14 (about $16) one way. (There's also the suburban line FL1 that stops at all of Rome’s other train stations (Tiburtina, Ostiense and Trastevere) and costs €8 ($9), but be aware that this train does NOT stop at Termini.) Buses and taxis are also available, but given the legendary Roman traffic, I really don’t recommend taking them as you’ll just waste precious sightseeing time.
If You Have a Half Day
Having a half day in Rome feels like a tease, but you can still make the best of your woefully limited time.
Start by taking the train into town and beating the inevitable traffic. The central train station, Roma Termini, is fortunately at the intersection of two subway lines. Decide which of Rome’s iconic monuments you want to see before heading back: the Colosseum or the Spanish Steps/Trevi Fountain.
For the Colosseum, take line B toward Laurentina and get off at Colosseo. Once you’ve peeked around the Colosseum, stop at one of the bars on via Laterano for an Aperol Spritz while enjoying more views of the world’s most famous amphitheatre before heading back to Termini and the airport.
For the Spanish Steps, take Line A towards Battistini and get off at Spagna. Walk down the Spanish Steps and then down via di Propaganda towards the Trevi Fountain. Stop at Origano on via Sant’ Andrea delle Fratte 25/26 for some delicious pizza and a cappuccino if you’re running low on fuel. Keep walking and head down via Poli and you’ll run right into the Trevi Fountain. Make sure you throw a coin over your shoulder into the fountain and don't look back; this is how you'll ensure your return to Rome — and hopefully for longer than half a day next time. Catch the metro at Barberini back to Termini and then head back to the airport.
If You Have a Whole Day
Start off with the Colosseum and then jump on the metro up to Spagna and do the walk to the Spanish Steps mentioned above. A 10-minute walk from the Fontana di Trevi is Piazza delle Coppelle, a charming Roman piazza where you’ll find a fantastic wine bar at number 47. This bar doesn’t seem to have a name, but they do have four high tables outside made from old wine barrels, so you can’t miss it — and it's an ideal spot to have a drink and watch the sunset. Next door is Osteria da Mario, which serves up delicious and traditional Southern Italian fare. Grab some gelato on the always bustling Piazza Navona before heading back to the airport.
If You Have the Night
Accommodation on points is easy to find in Rome, as you'll see in Destination of the Week: Rome. However, I’d recommend the centrally located Regina Hotel Baglioni, which starts at $270 per night, or as an Amex FHR property, enables cardholders of the Amex Platinum or its business version perks to score perks like upgrades (when available), daily breakfast for two, free Wi-Fi and an €85 ($95) food and beverage credit. For a bit less, the ISA Design Hotel starts at about €204 ($229) per night and also has a great location (near the Vatican), as well as a cool, modern feel. If you're looking to splurge, check out the glorious St. Regis Rome, which has rates that start at €550 (about $616) or 20,000 Starwood points per night.
If you want to stay near the airport, the most convenient option is the 517-room Hilton Rome Airport Hotel, just a five-minute covered walk from FCO. All rooms are soundproofed and provide free Wi-Fi access, and there are two on-site Italian restaurants, a bar and an indoor rooftop pool with an outdoor deck. Rates start at about €185 ($207) or 60,000 Hilton Honors Points.
No matter where you stay, be sure you leave time to go to Come il Latte (via Silvio Spaventa 24/26), where you’ll find what I think is undoubtedly the best gelato in Rome — which is not a claim made lightly, I assure you!
[card card-name='Starwood Preferred Guest® Credit Card from American Express' card-id='22034416' type='javascript' bullet-id='1']
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Intro offer
Annual Fee
Recommended Credit
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
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Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
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- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.
Rewards Rate
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 4X | Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year. |
| 3X | Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com. |
| 2X | Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com. |
| 1X | Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases. |
Intro Offer
You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after spending $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer.As High As 100,000 points. Find Out Your Offer.Annual Fee
$325Recommended Credit
Credit ranges are a variation of FICO® Score 8, one of many types of credit scores lenders may use when considering your credit card application.Excellent to Good
Why We Chose It
There’s a lot to love about the Amex Gold. It’s a fan favorite thanks to its fantastic bonus-earning rates at restaurants worldwide and at U.S. supermarkets. If you’re hitting the skies soon, you’ll also earn bonus Membership Rewards points on travel. Paired with up to $120 in Uber Cash annually (for U.S. Uber rides or Uber Eats orders, card must be added to Uber app and you can redeem with any Amex card), up to $120 in annual dining statement credits to be used with eligible partners, an up to $84 Dunkin’ credit each year at U.S. Dunkin Donuts and an up to $100 Resy credit annually, there’s no reason that foodies shouldn’t add the Amex Gold to their wallet. These benefits alone are worth more than $400, which offsets the $325 annual fee on the Amex Gold card. Enrollment is required for select benefits. (Partner offer)Pros
- 4 points per dollar spent on dining at restaurants worldwide and U.S. supermarkets (on the first $50,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter and $25,000 in purchases per calendar year; then 1 point per dollar spent thereafter, respectively)
- 3 points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with the airline or with amextravel.com
- Packed with credits foodies will enjoy
- Solid welcome bonus
Cons
- Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
- Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits
- You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $6,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
- Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on flights booked directly with airlines or on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on prepaid hotels and other eligible purchases booked on AmexTravel.com.
- Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
- $120 Uber Cash on Gold: Add your Gold Card to your Uber account and get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an American Express Card for your transaction. That’s up to $120 Uber Cash annually. Plus, after using your Uber Cash, use your Card to earn 4X Membership Rewards® points for Uber Eats purchases made with restaurants or U.S. supermarkets. Point caps and terms apply.
- $84 Dunkin' Credit: With the $84 Dunkin' Credit, you can earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you enroll and pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin' locations. Enrollment is required to receive this benefit.
- $100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card to dine at U.S. Resy restaurants or make other eligible Resy purchases. That's up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
- $120 Dining Credit: Satisfy your cravings, sweet or savory, with the $120 Dining Credit. Earn up to $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at Grubhub, The Cheesecake Factory, Goldbelly, Wine.com, and Five Guys. Enrollment required.
- Explore over 1,000 upscale hotels worldwide with The Hotel Collection and receive a $100 credit towards eligible charges* with every booking of two nights or more through AmexTravel.com. *Eligible charges vary by property.
- No Foreign Transaction Fees.
- Annual Fee is $325.
- Terms Apply.