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Looking for a secluded island getaway in Mexico without the crowds? There's a relatively under-the-radar island in Mexico that has the feel of one of Mexico's hottest beach towns but without the throngs of tourists — think Tulum, but 20 years ago.

While Tulum may be booming (and just opened its own international airport), there's a spot in Mexico where the pace is slower, crowds are nonexistent and the white-sand beaches are pristine. Sound too good to be true? We promise it exists. Best of all, most of the island is a nature preserve protecting the land, sea and all the creatures roaming about. The only downside: It's a bit of a hike to get there.

If you're looking for a relaxing beach vacation, but not necessarily a modern one, where nature is celebrated and time stands still, we may have just found your perfect spot.

What is Isla Holbox (or Holbox island)?

Holbox Island, or Isla Holbox (pronounced Hol-bosh), is a narrow barrier island north of the Yucatan peninsula in Mexico. It’s just over two hours north of Cancun International Airport (CUN) by shuttle or taxi, followed by a ferry ride. The island is at the confluence of the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea.

Holbox Island is home to only about 2,000 residents and is part of Mexico’s largest nature reserve, called Yum Balam (Lord Jaguar). Yum Balam comprises more than 150,000 acres of both on- and off-shore territory. It’s home to more than 400 bird species and multiple endangered species, including jaguars, crocodiles and monkeys.

An effort to protect the reserve is evident throughout the island. You won’t find massive resorts and gas-powered vehicles — or even many electric streetlights — on the island. Instead, you’ll encounter a multitude of smaller, local places to stay and eat. And to get between them, you’ll need to walk or hail a golf cart taxi to traverse the bumpy sand roads.

Holbox is still relatively undeveloped for tourism, and that’s part of its charm. We hardly saw another American — most of the other tourists were European or Canadian — and everyone we met was friendly and welcoming.

While there are great hotels and restaurants to enjoy, along with white sand beaches and turquoise water, there are no paved roads. Some places accept credit cards, but quite a few local eateries only take cash (pesos or dollars).

How do you get to Isla Holbox?

The closest airport to Holbox Island is Cancun International Airport (CUN), so we flew Southwest Airlines nonstop from Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (PHX) to CUN. After clearing immigration — a quick 15 minutes, thanks to the e-gates — we walked outside to find our prearranged shuttle transportation. (We asked our first hotel, Mystique Holbox by Royalton, to recommend a shuttle company. They suggested Nexus Tours, which also has an outpost in the hotel lobby where you can book activities. Shared transfers start at $42 per person.)

The shuttle takes 2 1/2 hours to reach the ferry terminal in Chiquila. We learned the hard way that the roads can be quite bumpy, so if you are prone to motion sickness, be sure to bring appropriate medications. (It also helps to have a travel partner who packs nondrowsy Dramamine — thanks, Emily!)

Once in Chiquila, there are two ferry companies to choose from: Holbox Express (red and white) and 9 Hermanos (blue and yellow), which are completely interchangeable. Ferries depart every 30 minutes and take around 20 minutes to get to the island. The ferry costs 220 pesos ($12) one-way or 400 pesos ($24) round-trip. (There is a 40 peso — or $2.30 — service charge for using a credit card, which we did to preserve our cash for the island.) Once the ferry arrived on Holbox Island, we jumped into one of the waiting golf cart taxis — which are always waiting when the ferries are running — from the port to complete the journey to our hotel (200 pesos, about $12).

Golf cart taxis waiting at the ferry port in Holbox. BECKY BLAINE/THE POINTS GUY.

Daytrips are also available to the island through tour operators from towns like Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum if you are staying elsewhere and want to visit for the day — we saw this online with shuttle companies, and tours were also available to book on Viator. Asking your hotel for tour operator recommendations is always a good idea.

Things to do on Isla Holbox

We set out to explore Holbox Island two ways as we prefer different travel styles — an active vacation and a relaxing vacation. We were successful in finding activities that would fit both styles and could easily have added days onto our trip in order to fit everything in.

Because we didn’t realize that Nexus Tours (the company we used for shuttle transportation to and from the airport) could also book activities, we booked our excursions before our arrival on the island. Based on research and reviews, we chose the three-island boat tour and the nighttime kayaking tour to see bioluminescence and stargaze. We booked both through Viator.

3-island boat tour

Mangroves at the Yalahau reserve. BECKY BLAINE/THE POINTS GUY

This tour was booked through Viator for a 10 a.m. departure with VIP Holbox. We received an email confirmation right away, and then the tour operator texted through WhatsApp to provide details 24 hours prior to the tour. The morning of the tour, they also provided updates on wind conditions from the harbor master to let us know by 9:30 a.m. if the tour was able to take place.

This tour takes about three hours, and VIP Holbox has everyone meet at their office, “la casa amarilla,” or the yellow house. There, we met our guide and boat captain, Eddie, who escorted our group of nine passengers to the dock. After a quick safety briefing and donning our life jackets, we were off to our first stop — the protected nature reserve of Yalahau.

Eddie provided us all with yellow entrance bracelets for Yalahau and walked us down the wooden boardwalk through the mangroves. Signage in Spanish and English warns visitors not to feed the crocodiles (we only saw one!).

Three-island boat tour. BECKY BLAINE/THE POINTS GUY

The main attraction here is the cenote, a freshwater spring where you can swim (life vests are required). There are plenty of hammocks and swinging chairs for you to relax in if you want to grab a drink at the on-site palapa bar.

Legend has it that the water is so pure that it makes you feel 10 years younger — we can’t say for sure; we only dipped our feet for a bit so we would have time to explore. We climbed up the stairs of the viewing tower, which offered 360-degree views of the reserve and sea.

As we departed Yalahau, we saw a crocodile resting on an overturned boat, a reminder that we would not be swimming near or venturing into the mangroves.

Our next stop was the crystal-clear water and sandbar of Punta Mosquito — this beach is on the north side of Holbox Island, past all of the beach resorts. There is a giant sandbar where you can venture off the boat and walk in the shallow water toward the beach.

The last stop was Isla de la Pasion — a tiny island that's part of the Yum Balam reserve. The attraction here is the birds — depending on how far out they are, you are able to see flamingos, pelicans and herons just offshore. The only other thing on the island is the remnants of a wooden structure.

Overall, it was a great way to see areas around the island we would not have gotten to without a boat, and it was a perfect day to enjoy the beach and a boat ride.

Tips: Be sure to have cash on hand to tip your guide and boat captain. Bring a hat, water and sunscreen, and wear your bathing suit or shorts that you don’t mind getting wet. No snacks are provided, and you are back at the main Holbox port in time to grab a late lunch after 1 p.m., but we recommend packing a snack.

Bioluminescence night kayaking tour

The Punta Mosquito sandbar at night, looking back toward Holbox Island. EMILY THOMPSON/THE POINTS GUY

One of the unique attractions of Holbox Island is its bioluminescent bay, one of only five in the world, which naturally glows at night. (Bioluminescence is light that is produced as a result of energy released during a chemical reaction in some phytoplankton.)

Of course, you must venture out in the dark to see this phenomenon. We booked a night kayak tour through Viator with the company Holbox Xtreme. The tour cost $105 for two people and included transportation between our hotel and the tour's beginning point, all our kayaking equipment and the one- to two-hour tour itself, which was led by our guide, Abraham.

We were disappointed to learn that the bioluminescence is far less prevalent early in the year, and the best time to see it is when the weather warms up later in the summer. This made for an extremely dark paddling adventure between Holbox Island and the sandbar that was our destination. Still, we got to see some bioluminescence thanks to some tricks Abraham taught our group, like immersing a light towel in the water and shaking it. The real highlight, however, ended up being a remarkable view of the stars in the night sky as a result of the minimal light pollution.

Overall, we didn’t find the stress of kayaking in the dark worth the payoff, but you might feel differently if you go later in the year when it’s easier to see the bioluminescent glowing water. For our part, we would have been just as well off to find a good spot to stargaze that didn’t require navigating crocodile-infested water.

Beach time

Beach club at Nomade Holbox. BECKY BLAINE/THE POINTS GUY

Many of the beachfront resorts have restaurants, palapa bars or some sort of beach club where guests and nonguests can grab a lounge chair and enjoy the beach and cool off in the sea. We made time at both of our hotels, the Nomade Holbox and Mystique Holbox by Royalton, to enjoy the beachfront amenities and a margarita.

Since we were also balancing activities with relaxation, we fit a lot into our two full days on the island, but you could devote all of your vacation days to relaxing by the water and have plenty of spots to choose from.

Additional activities

For a tiny island, there was never a shortage of things to do. While we didn't rent bikes or go stand-up paddleboarding (two popular island activities), we did make time to explore Centro — the central part of town with shops, restaurants and market stalls — and do a little shopping. We also went on a hunt to spot the colorful murals found all around town, and we took a shelter dog for a walk on the beach.

Refugio Animal Holbox, the dog shelter near the beach, rescues animals from the island and the surrounding area. Between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m., you can visit and volunteer to help out by taking a dog for a walk in town or on the beach. Additionally, you can just go by and pet the dogs or help clean kennels.

Where to stay on Isla Holbox

Nomade Holbox pool and beach. EMILY THOMPSON/THE POINTS GUY

Holbox offers multiple options for accommodations, from vacation rentals to boutique wellness resorts like Nomade Holbox. There is only one points hotel — Mystique Holbox by Royalton, which is in Marriott’s Tribute Portfolio.

There also are a few small hotels about a block off the beach, some with beachfront access. When we ventured down toward Punto Mosquito to meet up for our nighttime kayaking tour, we saw another whole section of the island with resorts.

Two that made us ooh and ahh as we passed by were Villas Flamingos and Mawimbi.

In short, the hotels and beachfront resorts all capture the culture of the island — laid-back and friendly.

Food on Isla Holbox

Seafood is plentiful here, and we ate our fair share of fish and shrimp tacos, but Holbox is also known for its lobster pizza.

There’s actually quite a rivalry among local eateries on the island, and searching for “best lobster pizza Holbox” pulled up a list of eight local restaurants, all highly rated for their version. We decided we had to try it and went to Pizzeria Edelyn — the original spot serving the dish since 1985.

We were skeptical about the lobster pizza, mostly because we came to Mexico for tacos — not pizza. But it seemed like an essential part of the Holbox Island experience, and it turned out to be a pleasant surprise. Picture lobster mac n’ cheese, but in pizza form. It’s definitely worth adding to a Holbox “must-do” list for anyone visiting the island.

A great lunch option that’s frequented by the locals is La Barracuda — a cash-only lunch spot just off the main road in town serving fresh seafood and tacos. It was already on our list of spots to check out, but then our boat tour guide also recommended it. A three-taco plate was only 240 pesos ($14), so we each ordered a plate — one of grilled shrimp and another of fish tacos — plus an appetizer of guacamole and chips. The total with bottled water and the service charge was 780 pesos (around $44).

We enjoyed dinner one night at Santos Fuegos, about a block from the Mystique Holbox hotel; it’s a beautiful open-air restaurant with friendly service and amazing food. The menu changes daily based on what’s available locally and is written on a chalkboard as tall as the servers. They bring the chalkboard menu right to your table and explain each dish to you. We enjoyed cocktails, ceviche, a grilled romaine salad, roasted carrots and short ribs — each course was better than the last. The total for dinner, including bottled water and one cocktail each, plus the service charge, came to 2,484 pesos (around $148).

We could have added more days just to explore more of the amazing local restaurants on the island. There were so many options that caught our eye: swanky cocktail bars, a Japanese omakase, a vegan restaurant, pizza, beachside tacos and fine dining, too (beach casual allowed — it is vacation, after all).

Weather on Isla Holbox

We visited the island in April, and the weather was relatively mild, with sunny days and temperatures in the 80s. There was a bit of humidity, but most days still had cool breezes. It can be windy, which can cause activities like boat and kayak tours to be canceled. On our departure day, the wind was pretty intense, causing a few whitecaps on the sea between Holbox and the port of Chiquila as we rode the ferry. We were thankful we weren’t trying to do any boat tours that day.

Later into the summer, it generally gets hotter and more humid. Temperatures don’t fluctuate much throughout the year, though, staying between the high 60s (winter) and the high 80s (summer).

When it rains or heavy winds cause storm surges, the sandy roads can flood. This happened in February (two months before our visit) when a cold front passed through with storm surge that left the streets flooded. There was still a bit of storm damage we could see — palm fronds and other debris that had been washed up against fences and still needed to be removed. The road in front of both of our hotels still had some mud and standing water; we’ve read that trucks come to drain standing water after storms.

How long to stay on Isla Holbox

If your goal is to have an active vacation with a full itinerary (and no beach time), you likely won’t want to stay more than two or three full days. However, if you wish to lounge on the beach and sample the island’s many eateries, you could easily spend a week or more here.

We arrived at sunset on a Sunday and had active days on a Monday and a Tuesday before departing on a Wednesday morning. We could have easily added one or two more days for beach time, which would have allowed us to sample more of the restaurants on the island as well.

Is Isla Holbox Island for you?

If you're looking for a beach vacation destination that feels largely untouched, Holbox Island is a great option — especially if you want to frequent locally owned restaurants and hotels. However, if you want minimal travel, recognizable dining options and a smooth ride between your hotel and dinner, you’ll likely find Holbox Island a bit more rustic than you prefer. And if you want a fully packed itinerary of island activities like surfing, diving and copious hiking options, you’ll want to choose a bigger island than this one.

Things to know before you go to Isla Holbox

Here are a few tips if you are planning to visit Holbox Island.

Money

Bring cash with you since this is the preferred method of payment for many restaurants and shops, and ATMs are scarce. We had read that there’s only one ATM on the island and it was often empty. We weren’t sure how many restaurants would take credit cards and didn’t want to take any chances, so we ordered pesos ahead of time from Bank of America (very easy and convenient).

We did pass a CIBanco on the main road that said it had an ATM, but we recommend checking with your banking institution ahead of your trip so you can avoid having to look for an ATM (or worse, standing in line at CUN to exchange money). We heard that many places accept U.S. dollars, but did not try that as we had pesos in hand.

Sunscreen and bug spray

We didn’t check any bags, so we both carried small 3-ounce bottles of sunscreen lotion and spray. That was plenty for three days. As far as mosquitos and bugs go on the island, one of us never got bit and the other was the bait.

There are a few shops and pharmacies in town where you can buy full-size sunscreen or bug spray if needed.

When to go

We visited in mid-April, which was ideal for a relaxing trip. The crowds were relatively low, and the weather was perfect — warm enough to lie out on the beach but still early enough to have a cool breeze.

However, we were there too early to see the whale sharks, a draw for many visitors to the island. If you want to see them, you’ll need to come between late May and early September. Our tour guide also told us that the bioluminescence is much brighter and more prevalent during the summer, thanks to the warmer temperatures in and out of the water.

Still, the rainy season is from June to October, and the lack of drainage systems and paved roads on the island means possible flooding when it rains. You’ll want to consider all these factors to decide when to plan a trip.

Bottom line on Isla Holbox

Isla Holbox is a very different experience than many other beach resort areas of Mexico. It definitely takes more planning than just heading to an all-inclusive resort in Cancun or Tulum, but in our opinion, it was totally worth it to experience this slice of rustic paradise for a few days.

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Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits

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You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $8,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
Earn 5X Membership Rewards® points on prepaid hotel stays booked through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App™.
Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points on flights booked through AmexTravel.com, the Amex Travel App™, or purchased directly from airlines.
Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points on prepaid car rentals booked through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App™ and cruises booked and paid through AmexTravel.com.
Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
Pay It® lets you tap in the American Express® App to quickly pay for small purchase amounts throughout the month and still earn rewards the way you usually do. Plan It® gives you the option to split up big purchases into equal monthly payments with a fixed fee. You’ll know upfront exactly how much you’ll pay.
$120 Dining Credit: Earn up to a total of $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the Gold Card at Grubhub (including Seamless), Buffalo Wild Wings, Five Guys, The Cheesecake Factory, and Wonder. This can be an annual savings of up to $120. Enrollment required.
$100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year at over 10,000 qualifying U.S. Resy restaurants after you pay for eligible purchases with the American Express® Gold Card. That’s up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
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$120 Uber Cash on Gold: Enjoy up to $120 in Uber Cash annually with your Gold Card. Just add your Card to your Uber account and you'll get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an Amex Card for your transaction.
Enjoy complimentary Hertz Five Star® Status benefits like skipping the counter at select locations, adding an additional driver at no additional cost*, and vehicle upgrades**. Benefit enrollment and Hertz Gold+ registration are required. *Additional drivers must meet standard rental qualifications and must be a spouse or domestic partner to qualify as complimentary. Other additional drivers subject to fees. **Benefits are subject to availability and vary by location. Additional Hertz program Terms and Conditions including age restrictions apply.
Book two nights or more with The Hotel Collection through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App™ and receive a $100* credit towards eligible charges at over 1,400 upscale hotels worldwide. *Eligible charges vary by property.
Book your travel through the Amex Travel App™ with added peace of mind – backed by American Express® service and support. Only for American Express® Card Members.
Whenever you need us, we're here. Our Member Services team will ensure you are taken care of. From lost Card replacement to statement questions, we are available to help 24/7.
No Foreign Transaction Fees.
Annual Fee is $325.
Terms Apply.

Pros

Valuable dining and food-related credits
Flexible rewards with airline and hotel transfer partners
Multiple travel and purchase protections
No foreign transaction fees
Access to Amex Offers for additional savings (enrollment required)

Cons

Not as useful for those living outside the U.S.
Some may have trouble using Uber and other dining credits

You may be eligible for as high as 100,000 Membership Rewards® Points after you spend $8,000 in eligible purchases on your new Card in your first 6 months of Card Membership. Welcome offers vary and you may not be eligible for an offer. Apply to know if you’re approved and find out your exact welcome offer amount – all with no credit score impact. If you’re approved and choose to accept the Card, your score may be impacted.
Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent on purchases at restaurants worldwide, on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
Earn 4X Membership Rewards® points per dollar spent at US supermarkets, on up to $25,000 in purchases per calendar year, then 1X points for the rest of the year.
Earn 5X Membership Rewards® points on prepaid hotel stays booked through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App™.
Earn 3X Membership Rewards® points on flights booked through AmexTravel.com, the Amex Travel App™, or purchased directly from airlines.
Earn 2X Membership Rewards® points on prepaid car rentals booked through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App™ and cruises booked and paid through AmexTravel.com.
Earn 1X Membership Rewards® point per dollar spent on all other eligible purchases.
Pay It® lets you tap in the American Express® App to quickly pay for small purchase amounts throughout the month and still earn rewards the way you usually do. Plan It® gives you the option to split up big purchases into equal monthly payments with a fixed fee. You’ll know upfront exactly how much you’ll pay.
$120 Dining Credit: Earn up to a total of $10 in statement credits monthly when you pay with the Gold Card at Grubhub (including Seamless), Buffalo Wild Wings, Five Guys, The Cheesecake Factory, and Wonder. This can be an annual savings of up to $120. Enrollment required.
$100 Resy Credit: Get up to $100 in statement credits each calendar year at over 10,000 qualifying U.S. Resy restaurants after you pay for eligible purchases with the American Express® Gold Card. That’s up to $50 in statement credits semi-annually. Enrollment required.
$84 Dunkin' Credit: Earn up to $7 in monthly statement credits after you pay with the American Express® Gold Card at U.S. Dunkin’ locations. Enrollment required.
$120 Uber Cash on Gold: Enjoy up to $120 in Uber Cash annually with your Gold Card. Just add your Card to your Uber account and you'll get $10 in Uber Cash each month to use on orders and rides in the U.S. when you select an Amex Card for your transaction.
Enjoy complimentary Hertz Five Star® Status benefits like skipping the counter at select locations, adding an additional driver at no additional cost*, and vehicle upgrades**. Benefit enrollment and Hertz Gold+ registration are required. *Additional drivers must meet standard rental qualifications and must be a spouse or domestic partner to qualify as complimentary. Other additional drivers subject to fees. **Benefits are subject to availability and vary by location. Additional Hertz program Terms and Conditions including age restrictions apply.
Book two nights or more with The Hotel Collection through AmexTravel.com or the Amex Travel App™ and receive a $100* credit towards eligible charges at over 1,400 upscale hotels worldwide. *Eligible charges vary by property.
Book your travel through the Amex Travel App™ with added peace of mind – backed by American Express® service and support. Only for American Express® Card Members.
Whenever you need us, we're here. Our Member Services team will ensure you are taken care of. From lost Card replacement to statement questions, we are available to help 24/7.
No Foreign Transaction Fees.
Annual Fee is $325.
Terms Apply.

If you're looking for a relaxing beach vacation, but not necessarily a modern one, where nature is celebrated and time stands still, we may have just found your perfect spot.

What is Isla Holbox (or Holbox island)?

How do you get to Isla Holbox?