Review: Air France La Premiere first class on the Boeing 777-300ER

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When I woke up at the crack of dawn on a recent Monday morning, I had no plans to fly Air France La Premiere, the airline's ultra-exclusive international first-class cabin.

After all, I had scored a 55,000-mile saver-level award seat in the airline's brand-new business-class cabin from Paris to New York, and I was excited about the prospect of reviewing a new-to-me cabin.

But upon checking my phone after my 5:15 a.m. alarm, my hopes were dashed. The flight I had booked was delayed due to "operational reasons." Then I looked at my updated boarding pass: The aircraft I was on had been replaced with another, and the fancy new business-class suite I had been anticipating had been swapped out for Air France's oldest angle-flat product.

While that may have made for an interesting review, I quickly sprang into action, knowing that the flight delay meant that I could rebook on a different flight at no additional cost.

Once I verified that the Boeing 777-300ER featuring the new business-class cabin was out of service for the day, I considered two choices: Go big or go home ... in an antiquated business-class seat.

Going big meant finally crossing off a bucket list flight experience that I've been eyeing for years: Air France's legendary La Premiere first class. It took some work on my end and an extra cash outlay, but it ended up being well worth it.

Thirteen hours later, I landed at Dulles International Airport (IAD) after what turned out to be one of the most memorable flights of my life.

Here's a detailed recap of my experience flying Air France La Premiere.

Air France La Premiere booking

Scoring a ride in Air France La Premiere is notoriously difficult.

For one, you actually need to find a route operated by one of the carrier's 19 Boeing 777-300ERs that feature first class. For the summer, that includes select frequencies in the following markets, based on Cirium schedules:

Abidjan, Cote d'Ivoire.
Dubai.
Los Angeles.
Mexico City.
Miami.
New York.
San Francisco.
Sao Paulo.
Singapore.
Tokyo.
Washington, D.C.

Once you identify a particular flight, you might be shocked to see that the cabin is already sold out, or available for $20,000 or more for a round-trip ticket. There's just a single row of four first-class suites, and the airline seems to have no trouble selling out the majority of the cabin during peak periods.

To protect the exclusivity of the product, Air France doesn't even allow mileage redemptions for La Premiere unless you are a Flying Blue Platinum or Ultimate elite member using Flying Blue miles. On top of that, the airline will only release at most one first-class award seat per flight in advance, and the rates are steep — starting at around 220,000 miles for a one-way flight from Paris to Dubai or New York.

There's no way to book La Premiere through partner loyalty programs, such as Delta SkyMiles, or by upgrading with miles, unless you're a Platinum or Ultimate elite member (and even then you'll need to pay up).

Altogether, this makes Air France first class one of the hardest-to-book airline experiences in the world.

However, there is one strategy that's worth keeping in your back pocket. If there are unsold first-class seats once the check-in window opens, it's possible — but not guaranteed — that you'll be offered a discounted last-minute upgrade.

There's no rhyme or reason to which flights offer paid upgrades, but I'd imagine that flights with more unsold first-class seats have a higher likelihood of offering buy-ups.

And that's exactly the strategy I used to score my La Premiere seat. Once my original flight was delayed, I looked at all same-day La Premiere options for getting back to the U.S. using ExpertFlyer, owned by TPG's parent company Red Ventures. ExpertFlyer showed that the New York flights only had middle suites left, and an Air France airport representative told me that the upgrade was going for 2,479 euros, or roughly $2,700 — no thanks.

But then I stumbled upon a flight to Dulles with three open first-class seats, as verified on ExpertFlyer. I figured the buy-up would be cheaper, plus I could select a window seat — the ideal setup for a solo flyer.

I asked the Air France representative at the airport if I could rebook my ticket from New York to Dulles, and after a bit of back-and-forth, I had a new business-class boarding pass for Air France Flight 54 to Dulles.

I then inquired about the first-class buy-up, and I was quoted 1,639 euros, or roughly $1,780. I still had more than five hours until the flight, and I would have plenty of time to enjoy the famed ground experience. Plus, it'd be a daytime flight with a full lunch service, so I figured it was now or never.

I purchased the upgrade, which coded as "travel" on my Chase Sapphire Reserve, and made a beeline for the La Premiere check-in area at Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG).

Air France La Premiere ground experience

For years, I've read about how Air France supposedly offers the world's best ground experience for its La Premiere passengers, and after four hours in the airline's care before my flight, I can confidently say that these reports are 100% accurate.

My time as an Air France first-class passenger began just outside of check-in hall No. 10 at Terminal 2E of CDG. I found a separate area with La Premiere branding at the entrance to the terminal.

Air France offers complimentary airport transfers for La Premiere passengers within a 30-to-40-kilometer radius at five airports (Paris, Bordeaux, Lyon, Marseille and Nice), though my last-minute upgrade (plus the fact that I was already at the airport) meant that I couldn't take advantage of this offering.

I quickly made my way into the terminal and found the separate La Premiere check-in area. While some airlines offer dedicated lanes for first-class passengers, Air France has an entirely separate private check-in lounge, complete with comfy seats, backlit walls and fresh flower bouquets. There are even private restrooms here with a stylish light fixture separating the two spacious stalls.

What you won't find inside are baggage scales, check-in counters and long lines. Instead, there are personal escorts waiting for La Premiere passengers at the entrance to this check-in area.

Upon arriving at the entrance to this lounge, a friendly escort ushered me to a seat, offered me a glass of still or sparkling water and collected my passport.

She then disappeared for a few moments and came back with my printed boarding pass and a walkie-talkie.

Once I confirmed that I wasn't traveling with any dangerous goods, she discreetly called ahead to the security and immigration officers to let them know that a La Premiere passenger was coming.

She grabbed my carry-on bag and backpack and escorted me through a few sets of back doors to the immigration officer who was awaiting my arrival at the front of the regular queue.

After that, I was taken directly to a private security lane that had been cleared of other passengers and had special La Premiere-branded bins.

From there, it was off to the La Premiere lounge, located just about a 100-foot walk from the security lane. My personal escort rode the elevator with me up one level, where I was greeted as "Mr. Griff" by my dedicated lounge concierge, who was waiting at the entrance and would be looking after me during my stay inside.

This was my first visit to Air France's La Premiere lounge, and I was blown away by it. It may not be the world's biggest or most over-the-top space, but it offered the chicest and most decidedly first-class-feeling lounge experience I've had yet.

For one, it was nearly empty throughout my stay — only first-class passengers can use the lounge, and with Air France's small La Premiere footprint, it never got busy or overcrowded.

There are a few dedicated relaxation and dining areas throughout the space.

The main lounging area is split between an open dining room with a variety of two- and four-top tables and a relaxation space that features a small whiskey bar (offering an entire seven-bottle collection of Johnnie Walker, including Blue Label) with white and mirrored accents and an additional lounging room.

Air France La Premiere Lounge CDG ZACH GRIFF/THE POINTS GUY

The rest of the lounge wraps around near the entrance. This includes separate men's and women's restrooms, a sleeping area, four shower suites and a Sisley-branded spa.

The restrooms were some of the coolest-designed ones I've seen before in an airport, though the shower suites weren't much to write home about — I'd much prefer showering in the far more spacious and luxurious suites at the Lufthansa first-class terminal.

The sleeping area had just a few daybeds arranged in a semicircle with faux palm rods demarcating each pod.

Meanwhile, the spa was one of the nicest I've seen in any airport. It featured a large treatment room with what proved to be an incredibly comfortable massage bed.

First-class passengers are entitled to a complimentary 30-minute facial with the option for longer paid services starting at 190 euros ($208) for an hour or 270 euros ($296) for 90 minutes, and booking my appointment was my first order of business once I got into the lounge.

Unfortunately, all appointment slots before my flight had already been taken by the time I approached the spa reception. I was disappointed, but I wasn't so surprised given that those booked in La Premiere can email maisonsisley.lapremiere@sisley.fr before their flight to pre-book a treatment time and I hadn't had much notice.

I then went back to the dining room to eat lunch, and was presented with menus from one of the friendly servers. Though there's a small buffet lining the dining room (complete with 11 different water choices), I saved my appetite for the a la carte dining experience, which is designed in partnership with chef Alain Ducasse, one of just two chefs in the world to have held over 20 Michelin stars.

I asked the waiter for his recommendations, and he rolled over a cart with a freshly grilled whole chicken, offering to prepare a piece or two for me.

I appreciated his suggestion, but as a pescatarian, I went with something else — the green pea veloute and the fillet of John Dory. I enjoyed my lunch with a glass of Champagne Barons de Rothschild Brut Rose.

The entire experience felt like I was dining at a fancy restaurant in the heart of Paris. From the refined yet friendly service to the delectable fare, I wished I had more room in my stomach for another round of food.

That said, my lunch was cut a bit short by the massage therapist, who came to find me at my table after she had received a last-minute opening for a 12:30 p.m. facial. She knew that I wanted a treatment, and I was impressed by the personalized follow-up.

She communicated the rush to my server, who ensured that I wrapped up my meal just in time for my complimentary 30-minute facial.

The spa was my last stop in the lounge, but it was no doubt a highlight — the facial was relaxing, and my face was glowing for the entire flight (and not just because I was so excited to be finally flying in La Premiere).

After the facial, I was introduced to another personal concierge — this one was going to take me to the aircraft. We descended a level in a separate elevator, where I found myself in a small security check area. I had received the dreaded SSSS treatment on my boarding pass (probably due to all the last-minute rebookings), so my bag was heavily scrutinized by the security agent.

Once I received the all-clear, my concierge took me outside onto the tarmac, where there was a DS 9 waiting to drive me to the plane.

Even though there were other first-class passengers on my flight, each flyer gets their own personalized transfer to the gate. Our drive took about 10 minutes. We needed to wait for some moving aircraft, but once I arrived at the gate, I was escorted up a flight of stairs directly to a roped-off jet bridge reserved for first-class passengers.

Air France Skyteam Livery Paris CDG Boeing 777-300ER — ZACH GRIFF/THE POINTS GUY

My escort handed me off to the flight crew and bid me farewell at the entrance of the plane, putting an end to what's certainly the best predeparture experience there is for first-class passengers.

Air France La Premiere cabin and seat

The La Premiere cabin spans just a single row, with four seats arranged in a 1-2-1 configuration.

Solo flyers will undoubtedly want to select one of the window seats, which each feature a whopping four windows with two dim settings, one that brings down stylish shades and another that adds a second, fully blackout layer.

There is a privacy divider that can be raised between the center seats once airborne, but the separation doesn't go up to the ceiling, so you won't enjoy as much privacy if you sit here.

Air France La Premiere Paris CDG Boeing 777-300ER — ZACH GRIFF/THE POINTS GUY

The stylish recliners measure 23 inches wide, and they are supremely comfortable.

Seat controls are located on the side table, and you can make plenty of fine-tuned adjustments to enhance your relaxation.

In terms of privacy, Air France offers an innovation we haven't seen any other airline copy — a floor-to-ceiling curtain that wraps around the entire seat and easily snaps shut thanks to three built-in magnets.

Once airborne, you'll enjoy your own space free from any distractions. Save for Emirates' game-changer first-class product with floor-to-ceiling doors, this is as good as it gets. Just note that the curtain isn't as blackout as you might envision it — if your neighbor is watching a movie, you may be able to see some flashing lights through the curtain.

There is also a smaller privacy divider that can be raised from the armrest of the window seats, but I found it to be redundant once my curtain was closed.

In terms of storage, you'll find a red suede-lined slide-out compartment underneath the ottoman, which can also double as a buddy seat during the flight.

The ottoman measures 28 inches wide and 16 inches long, making it one of the largest and most comfortable buddy seats I've seen.

There are also two deep storage compartments along the side of the seat, excellent for stowing loose items such as wallets, AirPods, iPads and more.

Note that there are only overhead bins over the window seats.

With crisp whites, beiges and red accents, the La Premiere cabin exudes French elegance, but my seat was a bit rough around the edges, with worn-out control buttons and areas of the 14-inch-wide side table that had been stained from years of use.

The airline is expected to unveil an updated first-class product later this year, though Air France should probably also ensure that its current cabins are flawless, especially considering the fares it charges.

The massive tray table pops out of the side of the seat. It feels incredibly hefty and durable and measures 25 inches wide and 24 inches long — large enough for two people to dine together comfortably with one of them occupying the buddy seat.

Unfortunately, you won't find any personal air vents in the gold-trimmed passenger service unit above each seat.

The four first-class passengers share access to a single lavatory located at the front of the cabin.

It's not as large as the bathrooms you'd find in first class on most Airbus A380s, but it is nicely appointed with Sisley-branded hand cream and makeup remover, as well as dental kits, cotton pads, linen towels and a no-touch tap.

I wasn't sure why Air France thought that offering a shared bar of soap would be fitting for a first-class lavatory, but I stuck to the liquid soap dispenser anyway.

There is a changing table in the lavatory, but with some peeling and discolored leather, it has certainly seen better days.

When it's time to sleep, a flight attendant will convert your seat into a lie-flat bed that measures just over 78 inches long. Plus, the seat's armrests lower in bed mode, giving you an additional 7 inches of width to spread out.

With a 1-inch-thick memory foam mattress pad, a fluffy duvet and a plush pillow (all provided during turndown service), this is the most comfortable bed I've enjoyed in the sky.

Other decidedly upscale details include the dimmable side lamp with a drum-shaped shade emblazoned with Air France's signature hippocampe aile, or winged seahorse, two LED seat lights and the hippocampe etched into the seat's headrest.

Air France La Premiere amenities and entertainment

The first few minutes of any first-class flight should feel like Christmas in terms of the gifts you receive, and La Premiere was no exception.

Waiting at my seat during boarding was a Sisley-branded amenity kit, which contained a bunch of sample-size creams and lotions, as well as a pen, bamboo comb, eyeshade, earplugs and headphone covers. The kit itself wasn't as stylish or as practical as some of the ones you'll find on other airlines (looking at you, United), but I definitely enjoyed the assortment of Sisley products.

In addition to the amenity kit, I found a chic red blanket carefully draped over my ottoman, along with a La Premiere-branded shoe bag, slippers and shoehorn.

There was also a small (and comfortable) dark gray throw pillow waiting on each seat. It had some red stitching on it, but I couldn't decipher if there was a pattern to the design.

Once I settled into my seat, the flight attendant introduced herself and offered me a pair of pajamas. While the chest pocket with the winged seahorse looked very luxurious, I didn't actually love the sleep set. It was a bit too scratchy for my liking, and the sizing and fit felt very European, with very tight pants and an awkward crop on the shirt.

Each seat features a 24-inch high-definition screen with over 60 new-release films, a handful of TV shows and some audio tracks. It wasn't the most extensive entertainment selection nor the most high-tech screen that I've seen in the air (that award goes to ANA), so I'd recommend bringing your own content if you're flying with Air France.

Just like Lufthansa, Air France pre-wires a pair of noise-canceling headphones into the seat and provides disposable headphone covers for added hygiene. These Denon-branded over-ear headphones were just fine, but I'd bring my own, possibly even AirPods Pro with a dongle, to use on board.

While the screen is responsive to touch, it would've been way too uncomfortable to reach across the seat to control the system.

Fortunately, there's a remote with a 4.2-inch touchscreen located in the side storage compartment that can be used to control the screen or display a miniature moving map.

Personally, I kept the live exterior camera on during taxi, takeoff and landing, and then played the moving map on the screen throughout the flight. I watched my own content ("Daisy Jones & the Six") on my laptop.

In terms of connectivity, each seat features two universal AC outlets — one in each side storage container — as well as a USB-A port. There are no USB-C ports or Qi wireless pads, two of the newest charging standards. Interestingly, there is a 3.5-millimeter headphone jack, so if you want to plug in your own wired headphones, you can.

Finally, Air France's Boeing 777s feature satellite-based Wi-Fi internet access. La Premiere passengers receive unlimited Wi-Fi on multiple devices, simply by signing in to the Air France portal. I found the Stream package, which retails for 30 euros ($33), to be fast enough for most tasks, but I couldn't successfully complete a speed test to quantify this observation.

Air France La Premiere food and beverage

After such a delicious meal in the lounge, I came in with lofty expectations for the onboard culinary experience, yet Air France managed to raise the bar once again — at least for the first meal service.

Service began with a silver-colored welcome tray that was waiting for me during boarding. It featured a small bottle of Evian water, a handwritten welcome card and a small box of cheddar cheese-filled savory crepes.

Once I settled into my seat, I asked for a glass of Champagne, which was delivered promptly on yet another white tablecloth-lined tray with more crepes.

I'm partial to Dom Perignon as my go-to first-class Champagne, but I did enjoy the Piper-Heidsieck 2006 Rare Champagne that Air France served. (For what it's worth, it retails for around $225 a bottle on the ground.)

Menus printed on thick cardstock were then distributed during boarding, and I loved the design with the red La Premiere branding and the winged seahorse in the center.

Given the 2:25 p.m. departure time, the menu included a full lunch service followed by a light snack before arrival. Though Air France offers dine-on-demand in first class, I opted to eat my main meal right after takeoff.

Lightly scented hot towels were handed out right after crossing through 10,000 feet, followed by caviar service, which was presented with a mother-of-pearl spoon, two blinis and a quenelle of lime-infused whipped cream on a side tray.

The French Sturia caviar was served directly on a plate, and the dollop I received was a pretty respectable size. The flight attendant offered seconds, but I declined.

Afterward, my tray table was unlatched and set with a thick white linen tablecloth and tableware, including a large winged seahorse charger — I wish I could've taken this dish home.

I selected an assortment of warm breads — the fig roll was my favorite — which was served alongside two types of French Echire butter.

My appetizer course consisted of a crab cake and a mixed salad that I customized using the ingredients listed on the menu.

By this point, I was already quite full — especially given the big lunch I had eaten a few hours earlier — but I kept pushing forward for research, of course.

I thoroughly enjoyed my sea bream entree, which was presented with a cloche — an elegant touch that definitely elevated the meal service.

I skipped the cheese course (and looking back at the menu now, I see I inadvertently missed the soup course, too), and dove right into dessert. All of the options sounded great, so the flight attendant offered a sampling of one of each.

I loved the presentation of the fruit bowl, though the highlight was no doubt the "100% vanilla dessert," which had what tasted like a shortbread cookie underneath a semicircular vanilla topping.

At this point, I was overstuffed, and I asked for a pot of mint tea to conclude the meal. It was served with a personal kettle that also had the winged seahorse on top of it — Air France really knocked it out of the park with the branding.

Throughout the meal, I enjoyed a glass of Piper-Heidsieck Champagne, a glass of the white 2017 Vignes Pascal Bouchard Chablis Premier Cru and finally a few sips of the very sweet 2019 Chateau La Tour Blanche Sauternes with dessert.

I embraced the food coma that followed my second lunch with a long nap and woke up about 90 minutes before landing in time for the light snack.

It was served as a single course, and the portion was very small. In fact, this was the most underwhelming "meal" I had all day, and unless you're famished, I wouldn't necessarily wake up early just to have it.

There was a small spinach and cheese salad, as well as two tiny leek tarts, served alongside a small jar of yogurt and a few pieces of apple compote.

While the inflight lunch service was one of the best airplane meals I've had in a long time, Air France could definitely upgrade parts of its first-class culinary offerings. This would include a more substantial pre-arrival meal, a cocktail and mocktail list and a snack basket between the first and second meals.

Air France La Premiere service

Service is really where the product shines.

With just four seats in first class, you're guaranteed to enjoy a personalized experience. Want to have your meal after sleeping? No problem. Want to skip the entree and start with dessert? Again, not a problem.

The two flight attendants looking after the first-class cabin couldn't have been nicer, friendlier or more genuine. Sophie and Valerie made sure that every single request I had went fulfilled, always with a smile and a "my pleasure."

While the turndown service felt more like something I'd find at a Four Seasons hotel than on a plane, I was particularly impressed when Valerie proactively asked if the cabin temperature was too hot or too cold. She offered to adjust the thermostat to my liking — something that I very much appreciated, given that there aren't any overhead air nozzles in La Premiere.

Throughout the meal, I felt like I was being doted on by an expert team of waiters trained in a fancy restaurant or top-notch hotel in Paris. It may not have been as over-the-top as you'd find on Emirates or the omotenashi you'd find on ANA or JAL, but my service experience in La Premiere matched what I'd expect from a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in France.

Once the lights were turned off, Valerie asked me to please press the flight attendant call button anytime I needed something. When I did, she appeared within 30 seconds.

This culture of service wasn't just limited to the inflight experience. I enjoyed this same attention to detail and level of sophistication in the predeparture lounge in Paris and after landing at Dulles, where a personal assistant was waiting to take me onto the people mover and usher me through immigration formalities.

In fact, my concierge was one of the friendliest U.S.-based airline employees I've met to date.

Bottom line

La Premiere was everything I imagined and then some.

While the product has been on my bucket list for years, I wasn't necessarily expecting to fly it on a whim. Had I known in advance, I would've done more preparation — poring over other reviews and videos to maximize my experience.

But the spontaneous nature with which I booked the ticket actually helped me enjoy the flight even more. I didn't have any recent reviews to compare it to, and I went into the flight with a completely open mind.

What I experienced was a level of service, especially on the ground, that is second to none. Combined with the most comfortable bed I've slept in on a plane, a luxurious cabin with unparalleled privacy and a scrumptious meal service, I'm already counting down the days until I can do it all over again.

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