My Madrid: Eat, Drink, Play, Amor
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Today we introduce you to another of the TPG staff based far and wide across the United States and Europe. To learn a little more about them, they’re sharing with you their experiences in the destinations they call home. Today, meet Foreign Correspondent Lori Zaino and her Madrid.
When I arrived in Madrid in 2008, exhausted and overworked due to a fast-paced New York City lifestyle, my plan was to spend just one year here and return to the United States. Six years later, relaxed and happy, my love affair with the Spanish capital is still going strong–with no end in sight!
Madrid is a cosmopolitan and urban city, but I really adore how it manages to retain its authenticity, making it truly Spanish at heart. Madrid for tourists is incredible, but the real Madrid, the one where people eat, drink, live and love, is even more magical. Read on for my insider tips for enjoying this city like a Madrileño.
Shopping: Although I can’t resist rebajas (the huge sales that happen every July and January) at Zara and Mango, I prefer to spend my euros on local Spanish designers. Among my favorites are Sita Murt and Dolores Promesas, both of whom have boutiques in the chic Barrio Salamanca. The knitwear at Sita is original and luxurious, whereas Dolores Promesas is always on top of the trends.
Meandering through Malasaña on a Saturday afternoon is another intriguing shopping extravaganza. Try Calle de la Palma and the surrounding streets for some great vintage finds, Curiosite for knick knacks, and of course my resident tea shop, El Paladar de Te, where you can splurge on a bag of fancy loose tea after a pleasant session of sniffing tea varieties (I recommend the green tea with ginger and lemon).
Restaurants/Bars: Before starting my shopping adventures, I first head over to Mama Framboise for a café con leche and a pastry. This place is quaint and relaxing–the perfect spot to start your day.
After a busy morning out, I love to relax at Merimee Gastrobar in one of their king chairs for lunch, ordering a French 75 cocktail (gin, lemon juice, sugar and cava) and my go-to dishes: the duck confit and the blueberry cheesecake for dessert.
Tapeando is always a good idea in Madrid, and just so happens to be one of my preferred activities. Jurucha is as traditional as it gets, with tiny tostas covered with delicious toppings like salted cod, meat stew, or salmon with melted brie cheese. Lo Siguiente offers a hearty portion sized tapa of tender barbeque ribs that should not be missed, especially if you’re a meat lover like myself. (Note: Madrid not recommended for vegetarians.) For my top tapas spots, which include the two best mercados in Madrid, see this post.
Public and Finca de Susana are also excellent choices for a lunch or dinner out. They offer a number of delicious dishes (anything fish or steak is the way to go), at relatively inexpensive prices. They don’t take reservations, so arrive before 9 p.m. to avoid a long wait, and beware, their service is brusque, but their food is worth it.
After dinner, head for Penthouse on the top ME Melia hotel in Plaza Santa Ana. The drinks are pricey but the view says it all. Order what I personally find to be a little piece of heaven on earth, otherwise known as a tinto de verano (a thirst-quenching summer wine spritzer) or a clara con limon (beer mixed with lemon Fanta) as a live DJ spins European house and well-dressed young Madrileños mingle.
Ole Lola Tasca and Chill is a dark and dashing place if you’re looking to continue the party. This block and the surrounding neighborhood are full of hip bars and clubs to drink and dance all night long (be careful, once you start, you may not return home until sunrise).
It’s not a Sunday afternoon in Madrid if you haven’t hit up the funky La Latina neighborhood. Grab a rooftop table at El Viajero to enjoy some cañas with friends, or simply wander around, stopping into any bar that suits your fancy.
Relaxing Weekends: Everyone needs a break from the hustle and bustle of the city sometimes. One of my favorite things to do is to wheel my way through peaceful Retiro Park on my bike or rollerblades (both can be rented here). My preferred route is to pass by the lake and head towards the quiter area by the luminous Chrystal Palace. I can’t leave home without my blanket, a good book, and some empanadas purchased from Animari Bakery to snack on. If you’re feeling particularly energetic and need to work off your tapas, a Vinyassa flow yoga class in the Retiro with Cris could be just the thing (better brush up on that Spanish first).
An easy stroll through the regal Parque de los Caprichos will inspire your imagination, with statues of forgotten royalty and even a labyrinth. Another enjoyable daytime activity is to take a ride on Madrid’s cable car route the Teleferico over the river to Casa de Campo and back. After the short ride (about 12 minutes each way), walk over to Templo de DeBod, an Egyptian temple in the middle of a tranquil park. Circle around the temple, admiring the fact that yes, this is an Egyptian temple in the middle of Spain, and then find a good spot to watch the sunset. Bringing your own beverage is optional and often done by the locals.
The power of the plaza in Madrid is astonishing. When the weather is bright and clear and spring has finally arrived, you can find just about every person, young and old alike, paseando through the plazas looking for the perfect spot to tomar algo. My favorites include, but are not limited to the Plaza Santa Ana (Huertas neighborhood), the Plaza Santa Barbara (Alonso Martinez neighborhood) and the Plaza Dos de Mayo (Tribunal/Malasaña neighborhood).
Whether you visit Madrid as a tourist or prefer to see the spots like a local (or a mix of both), I know this city will charm you as much as it charmed me (and TPG too–it’s one of his favorites).
Do you have a question for Lori about Madrid or your own favorite spots to share? Post them in the comments below.
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